 Mostarda (Mustard) di Cremona Frutta Mista
An
unusual specialty typically identified with Cremona, in the Lombardia region of
Italy, traditional Mostarda is a mixture of whole fruits preserved in simple
syrup and mustard oil. Mostarda's origin goes back to the honey, mustard, oil
and vinegar condiments of the Roman Empire.
The word mostarda derives from the
French, moutarde, which in turn derives from mout ardent-a fiery condiment made
by adding essence of mustard to unfermented grape must and cooking it down. It
also derives from the traditional cugna of Piedmonte.
This is a jam made from
boiled down grape must which is spiced with ground mustard and mixed with fruit.
During the Renaissance, sweeteners were difficult and expensive to obtain, so mostarda was enjoyed primarily by the aristocracy. Most modern visitors to Italy
recall seeing mostarda served with bollito misto, the famous boiled meat dish of
the North.
I suspect that the creativity of the cremonesi is in part a product of their
substantial cuisine. Most agricultural statistics indicate that the farms in the
province of Cremona are the most productive in Italy. This is in the middle of
Padania, the fertile plain of the Po River valley. There are beef cows and dairy
cows. The former wind up as the secondo at many cremonese meals.
The
latter produce rivers of milk, used to make several wonderful cheeses plus
butter and cream. A special flavor here is mostarda, which gives a
special tang and sweetness to many of the dishes in cremonese cuisine, including tortelli di zucca and bollito misto.
The food of Cremona surely is not light, but it is more
subtle than one would expect from a place that relies on the cow for much of its
sustenance.
Cremona also vies with Benevento in Campania and a few other towns
as the home of the popular torrone. Where it was created is a matter of
debate, but there is no doubt that the version made in Cremona is the most
famous.
While most food stores in Cremona are closed on Sunday and on Monday
afternoon, you can buy 24/7 the Internet products presented on the Internet without having
to go to Cremona first.
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