Truffles
The term "truffle" as commonly
used refers to members of the genera Tuber and Terfezia.
There are many other kinds of subterranean fungi, "false truffles,"
which outwardly resemble the ones we eat. They are far more common
than the truffles that are collected for food, and some are poisonous.
Truffles are round, warty, and
irregular in shape and vary from the size of a walnut to that of a
man's fist. The season for most truffles falls between September and
May.
The mention of truffles
conjures up images of the renowned odorous white truffle (Tuber
magnatum) of Alba, in the Piedmont district of Italy.
Autumn has always been the richest
season for the Langhe, land of Barolowine and of truffles, and of
well-cultivated vineyards. After the grapes have been harvested the
farmers go hunting for truffles. The Barolo wine does not betray,
and goes perfectly with specialties such as "taiarin," narrow
tagliatelle enriched with aromatic truffles.
As truffles grow under the earth,
they are located using the sensitive noses of specially-trained
dogs, who carefully dig them up with their paws. These dogs are
referred to by the Piedmontse as "tabui", which strangely enough
means "bastards.".
From twilight until deep into the night, when the contours of the hills of the towns of Langhe,
Roero, Monregalese, and Monferrato are blurred by the autumnal fog and the cold
is beginning to bite, a few men set out in the company of their trusted dogs to
follow imaginary routes that have been jealously guarded in their memories,
passing over gorges and hills, in what has become a pilgrimage among poplar and
linden trees and deep into the forests of oak and willow.
Thus begins the search for the unique white truffles of the Piedmont region that takes place
each year from September to December, when truffles-hunters - locally knows as
trifolau - unleash their dogs in what is a thrilling and fascinating
contest that will be the subject of stories in the local inns throughout the
winter months.
For centuries, the truffle was believed to grow wherever lightening struck, the
Greeks and Romans considered it to be an excellent aphrodisiac and Emperor
Charles V is said to have enjoyed one during a memorable dinner in Alba in 1537.
Rossini, a truffle connoisseur, called the white truffle "the Mozart of
mushrooms," while Byron kept one on his desk to stimulate his creativity. More
recently, Rita Hayworth and Winston Churchill are among those who have sung its
praises as well as gourmets around the world who appreciate the unique nature of
this rare variety of truffles.
Tuscan Truffles
Piedmont
Truffles
A bit of history of truffles
Since the times of the Greeks
and Romans truffles have been used in Europe as delicacies, as
aphrodisiacs, and as medicines. Truffles are among the most expensive of
the world's natural foods, often commanding as much as $250 to $450
per pound.
In 1564, Dr. Alfonso Ciccarelli of
Bevagna wrote a treatise entitled "DeTuberibus" dedicated to that
most "scent"-ual of tubers, the truffle. The truffle's physical
character obviously fascinated Pliny, who referred to it as a
"callous under the earth". A Piedmontse chef by the name of Giacomo
Morra is credited with having been first to put truffles on the
table in recent times.
In 1825
Brillat-Savarin called the truffle "the diamond of the kitchen" and praised
the truffle
aphrodisiac powers. (Physiology of Taste Meditation vi). While the
aphrodisiac characteristics of truffles have not been established, truffle is
still held in high esteem in colloquial French, northern Italian and Istrian
Croatian cooking, and in international haute
cuisine.
Black Truffles (Tartufi Nero d'Estate)
Product Description
Thinly sliced black truffles in oil. These summer Piedmontse truffles are
preserved in extra virgin olive oil. Use them to flavor egg or potato dishes
in place of butter. We believe that truffles jarred at the peak of freshness
retain their flavor better than truffles shipped or flown here in their
whole form. With these jarred truffles, you can indulge in one of Italy's
greatest treasures without blowing a hole in your budget.
Carnaroli Rice
Product Description
Italian rice cultivation is
concentrated in certain areas of the country, although it is consumed in
various dishes throughout the Italy. Carnaroli, considered one of the best
Italian rices, is grown in the Piedmont region. Its excellent cooking
qualities make it ideal for preparing risottos of the finest quality.
Although less well known in the U.S. than Arborio rice, Carnaroli is
actually more highly valued by Italian chefs. Try it in place of Arborio the
next time you make risotto. You'll be surprised by its super creaminess and
recognize why Carnaroli is known as "The Caviar of Rice."
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