Liguria Food

Liguria Food

Camogli - Focaccia with anchovies - Photo © winyang blog

There is a saying that he who eats pesto never leaves Genoa, the stronghold of this delicious sauce, rich with the flavors of fresh basil, olive oil, garlic, pine nuts, and cheese. Traditionally, the ingredients are put in a mortar and pounded with a pestle until a smooth sauce emerges. Pesto is popular throughout the world, but small-leafed Ligurian basil, grown in herb gardens buffeted by sea breezes, is arguably the best in the world.

True Ligurian focaccia is not the pizza-like bread we enjoy here in America. As Liguria’s salty air and humidity makes it difficult to bake good bread and keep it from spoiling quickly, the Ligurians devised a bread that can be eaten hot out of the oven. This unleavened, thin, flat bread is usually topped with olive oil and salt, and in some areas, sage, cheese or onions.

Did the Ligurians bring pasta to Italy, as they still claim today? Whether it’s true or not, they have created several delightful types that are local specialties. Pansotti are a triangle-shaped ravioli-style pasta, stuffed with a mixture of vegetables (such as swiss chard, borage, and endive) and ricotta cheese, and are often served with salsa di noci, a walnut sauce. Trenette, made from whole wheat flour, come in long, flat strips, either fresh or dried, and like trofie, a spiral-shaped gnocchi, are served with a sauce made from boiled beans, potatoes, and pesto.

The Cinque Terre seas are an unequalled habitat for many species of fish. Fishing is done by lampare (night trawling with lamps), along the sea beds near Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. The smell of anchovies is quite unique and the variety of shiny silvery greys is unmistakable. The women set up their stalls in the squares and sell the fish, surrounded by lively chatter, the catch prize being a mormora, an orata or one of the types of ink fish (itiani and calamari).

The market often boasts baskets of prawns, caught or fished off the Ligurian coast. Throughout the years local restaurants have become famous for their fish and specialties, but traditional recipes have never been forgotten and are always part of the menu. Mussels (le cozze) are always on the menu too: alla marinara - boiled and dressed with a few drops of lemon juice and a sprig of parsley - or stuffed with tuna fish, cheese, mortadella, egg and marjoram. The latter takes lot of patience because each uncooked mussel has to be opened individually.

Gastronomy in the Cinque Terre, Riviera and Vara Valley
Acciughe di Monterosso
Gastronomy in"Golfo dei Poeti" and Magra Valley
Focaccia genovese classica
Savova and province foods

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