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Recipes | Salami | Cheese | Wine | Travel | Italian Food

Lavander fields MarcheMarches Food:

The local cuisine of the Marches region reserves a place of honor for the Casciotta d’Urbino, a cheese that is eaten throughout the day.  Made according to a tradition that can be traced back to as early as the 16th century in the province of Pesaro-Urbino, Casciotta di Urbino has a pale yellow paste that is lightly perforated by characteristic little holes.  Made primarily from ewe’s and cow’s milk, Casciotta should be eaten after a maturation process that lasts from 20 to 30 days.  Mild and only slightly acidic, it is enjoyed simply with a slice of ciauscolo, grilled polenta, or with sweet accompaniments such as jams and pears.

The Marchigiani cherish every inch of the pig.  Ciauscolo, a type of spreadable pork, is traditional in this part of Italy.  This specialty is made form the belly and shoulder of the pig and flavored with salt, pepper, fennel, garlic, and orange rind.  Other pork specialties include Carpegna Prosciutto, Soppressata da Fabriano, and Fegatino, a liver sausage.

One of the region’s signature dishes, Vincisgrassi is a special recipe that reflects the Marchigiani attitude to life.  Handmade with care, this festive dish is a type of lasagne layered with a sauce of chicken giblets, mushrooms, veal brains and sweetbreads, ham, bechamel, Parmigiano Reggiano and, in season, truffles, preferably white. Legend has it that a chef made the dish centuries ago for an Austrian prince who fought in the war against Napoleon in 1799.

Piceno gastronomy

Eating in open air in the MarchesHow should a self-respecting Ascolan lunch start? Tradition and rural memory suggest without a doubt lamb giblets, served with eggs or with tomato and hot pepper, chicken livers, but also cheese-flavored bread accompanied by the seasonal salamis and cold cuts (de rigueur at Easter) and a plate of tender stuffed and fried olives.

Egg noodles have an important presence among the first courses, whether they are tagliatelle, fine cut spaghetti, maccheroncini di Campofilone, or chitarrine from Abruzzo: but there's no discussion over the sauce: it must be of chicken giblets. For the menu of Friday or di vigilia, spaghetti with tuna, green olives and tomato sauce. As an alternative, the soups linked to the mountain economies, with a cereal or legume base: spelt soup, or that of lentils, or beans or egg noodles with chickpeas.

The second course, which is also the "symbol", is the fritto misto all'ascolana: stuffed olives, naturally, then fried custard, zucchini, artichokes and lamb ribs. Much appreciated is also grilled lamb, rabbit or chicken and, for Good Friday's menu, stoccafisso or baccalà with herbs and spices. To conclude the meal, the sober coke or ciambellotto is a popular choice, with anisette flavored pastries, the cicerchiata, the rich and caloric frustingo and fried sweet ravioli, filled with chestnuts or cream or even ricotta. Piceno's wines from the beginning to the end: white Falerio of the Colli Ascolani, but also the autochthonous vines Pecorino and Passerina, then red Rosso Piceno and Rosso Piceno Superiore, and to conclude with a trip into archaic memory, the vino cotto, conserved in barrels, and the completely Mediterranean fascination of Anisetta and mistrà.

photos (c) Paolo Marini www.fotomarche.com

Marche food: Entree Courses
Marche food: First Courses
Marche food: Main Courses
Marche food: Fish Courses
Marche food: Cheese Courses
Pesaro-Urbino food and wines
Valmarecchia: “formaggio di fossa” and mystery of bread

 


(c) 1997-2008 E. Massetti
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