How to make the Risotto alla Milanese:
Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter with the marrow
in a saucepan large enough to cook the rice, making sure the marrow dissolves.
Add the onion and sauté gently until soft and
transparent, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir until every grain is
coated and shiny, abut 3 or 4 minutes. Add the wine and keep stirring until it
evaporates.
Dissolve the saffron in 2 tablespoons of the hot
broth and set aside.
Add the remaining hot broth to the rice, 1/2 cup
at a time, stirring constantly , waiting until the broth is absorbed before
adding more.
The risotto alla milanese should always be moist. After about
15 minutes, taste the rice, it should be done al dente.
Add the saffron, stir, and cook for 3 minutes,
adding broth as necessary and stirring constantly.
Remove from the heat when the risotto alla
milanese is still moist and stir
in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and the 6 tablespoons Parmesan.
Cover tightly and allow the risotto to set for 3
minutes.
Turn out onto a heated serving dish and serve
with freshly ground black pepper and more Parmesan as needed.
Note: The risotto should be, as we say in Italy, all'onda, or wavy. It should be served slightly moist, not dry
Serves 6
Risotto alla milanese - Milanese risotto: a bit of
history:
History of Italian cuisine Risotto dates back to the Renaissance and is a
descendant of the Spanish paella. The dish is said to have originated in 1535,
when Charles V made his son Philip duke of Milan, beginning what was to be
nearly two centuries of Spanish rule. Saffron added to the rice turns it a deep
yellow and adds a subtle yet pungent flavor.
Bone marrow is essential for a good risotto alla
milanese. Many
butchers give it away for nothing. You can freeze the marrow in small quantities
and use it as you need for risotto.
The rice for risotto alla milanese should be Italian superfine Arborio rice, or, better, Carnaroli rice, slightly moist
and al dente when done. The rice will continue to cook after it has been removed
from the flame, so be ready to add the butter and freshly grated Parmesan cheese
immediately.
The entire process of cooking the risotto takes roughly 45 minutes and requires
your full attention.
In Italy we say "Il riso nasce nell'acqua e muore
nel vino," meaning rice is born in water and dies in wine, so, in addition
to the wine used for cooking it, have a good dry
white wine ready to serve with the risotto.
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