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The Alps, the Lakes, the Sea
Part 1: From Turin to Milan through the mountains and the lakes
The area between Turin, Milan and Genoa is today known in Italy as the
industrial triangle. And yet the names of these same cities
evoke three of the most magnificent aspects of Italy's
natural scenery: the Alps, at whose feet Turin spreads the
regular network of its straight streets; the lakes, which
are set like a diadem on the brow of the Lombard capital;
and the sea of the two Rivieras which meet where Genoa sits,
enthroned like a queen.
In very ancient times it was over the Alpine passes that the
invader entered Italy the Gauls, Hannibal, the innumerable
Barbarian tribes; and over these same passes the Roman
legions poured into Gaul, into Switzerland and into Germany.
This, then, is why the civilization of Piedmont and Lombardy
seems so closely related to that of western and central
Europe, and especially to that of one particular state, long
since vanished, but of which evidence keeps reappearing like
some not entirely forgotten memory of spiritual unity: the
kingdom of Burgundy. |
But no invaders landed in Liguria; on
the contrary, the merchants and, when necessary, the
warriors of Genoa set out from its shores bound for the
prosperous colonies of the eastern Mediterranean, or for the
Crusades.
Although their historical evolution from the Middle Ages on
was by no means similar (Turin became the capital of a
kingdom which was later to give birth to the Italian State;
Genoa set itself up as an aristocratic republic; and Milan,
after a brief seigniorial phase, fell under foreign rule), a
profound and lively sense of unity exists between these
three regions.
The itinerary:
Torino: one or more days should
be reserved to visit Torino and nearby surroundings.
Ivrea: an ancient city on the banks of the tumultuous Dora River,
which was the capital of the short-lived Italic kingdom of Berengarius
It and Arduinus (966-1011).
Buildings to be visited include the handsome Castle (XIV cent.), an
austere reddish pile, with cylindrical crenellated towers, and the very
ancient Cathedral with its octagonal dome and two sturdy towers (inside,
an Adoration by Defendente Ferrari).
Beyond Ivrea, the Canavese plain narrows as we climb the valley of the
Dora: this is the road along which the legions passed between Rome and
Gaul, and it is, therefore, strewn with Roman bridges, archways and
inscriptions. Massive medieval castles dot the countryside up as far as
the Alpine passes. |
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Some 11 miles from Ivrea is the town of Pont Saint Martin with its Roman
bridge (130 B.C.) and 9 miles further on, the town of Verres, with its
Tower of St. Gilles, Castle and medieval houses. It is worth going the
extra mile to Issogne, where, in a breathtaking position, stands the
most beautiful Castle in the Valle d'Aosta, with a remarkable arcaded
courtyard, XV century frescoes showing scenes of everyday life, and
magnificent original furnishings.
After another 3 miles, we reach Saint
Vincent, a famous holiday resort, with a Roman bridge. Passing
through Chatillon (with another castle) and Nits, we reach 1,5 miles)
the mighty Castle of Fenis also containing beautiful frescoes.
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Aosta:
Tourists are advised to spend the night in Aosta and on the next morning
take the unforgettable trip through Courmayeur, the well-known mountain resort, to the daring Cableway which soars over the Mont
Blanc glacier to Chamonnix, probably the most thrilling Alpine journey
possible today.
Vercelli: On the
morning we come back down the Valle d'Aosta and, passing by lvrea, cover the
thirty miles to VERCELLI, an ancient Roman and medieval city. By taking
Corso Prestmari and Corso Garibaldi, we reach the Basilica di Sant'Andrea,
the most important building in the town (1224), partly Romanesque and partly
Gothic, with a handsome portico and three doorways on the facade, and its
sturdy towers; the cloister of the adjoining abbey is also noteworthy. The
Church of San Cristoforo contains Gaudenzio Ferrari's masterpiece, the
Madonna of the Pomegranate.
Novara: Fifteen miles from Vercelli, we find the city of
NOVARA, dominated by the Doing (399 feet high) built by Antonelli for the
Church of San Gaudenzio. In the center of the town stand the XIX century
Cathedral, the XIV century Baptistery and the XV century Palazzo del
Broletto. |
Orta Lake: After a
short climb through Borgomanero and Gozzano we reach the lovely LAKE OF
ORTA, surrounded by high mountains. On the eastern shore we come, after
about 2,5 miles, to Orta San Giulio with its simple, but pleasing Town Hall,
and its beautiful Parrocchiale (Parish Church). By rowingboat, or motorboat,
we can visit the enchanting Island of San Giulio, with its very old
Romanesque Basilica (V century).
Stresa: After a journey
enhanced by magnificent views of the lakes and mountains, we descend to
Stresa, the gem of Lake Maggiore (in Latin Verbanus), whose northern arm
extends into Swiss territory. The extraordinary beauty of its vegetation,
its delightful scenery and the mildness of its climate have made it a famous
holiday resort ever since ancient times. By taking a boat from Stresa, you
can visit the Borromean Island: Isola Bella, with its Palazzo
Borromeo, containing partings, tapestries and a collection of arms, Isola Madre and Isola del Pescatori,
with its quaint fishermen's houses. From Sresa it is also worth a visit to
the Mottarone.
The next day, our trip continues towards the Swiss border (35 miles). We
come first to Baveno with its lovely bay (Romanesque Parrocchiale,
Baptistery) and then, leaving tiny Lake Mergozzo to our left, to the village
of Pallanza perched on an enchanting promontory jutting into the lake (note
the Palazzo Pretorio, the XVI century Church of S.Leonardo, and the Church
of the Madonna dl Campagna with its Bramantesque octagonal dome). |
Lake Orta - Photo © Aldo Casati |
Rounding
the tip of the promontory, we come in rapid succession upon the towns of
Intra, Ghiffa and Cannero, off which the ruins of old castles may be seen on
two tiny islands. A halt should be made in Cannobio to visit the
Bramantesque Santuario delta Pieta (inside, a beautiful Altarpiece by
Goudenzio Ferrari), and the arcaded houses ornamented with wrought iron and
carved wood work.
At Poggio di Valmara, we cross the Swiss border. After Ascona, the
millionaires paradise, we reach the city of LOCARNO 11 miles from the
border, with its Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sasso, which is accessible by
funicular railway and from which a magnificent view may be enjoyed.
We then cover the 25 miles of lovely scenic road, via Cadenazzo, to LUGANO
on the lake of the same name (see the old quarter, the Renaissance
Cathedral, the XV century Palace of Justice and Lucchini Palace, the XVII
century Rival Palaces and, above all, the extremely important frescoes by
Bernardino Luini in the church of Santa Maria degli Angioli; visit the
richly endowed Von Thyssen collection).
Bellano, lake Como towards Lecco
photo © Cendali Gianpietro |
Como: Continuing south
and crossing a bridge over the lake, we leave the tiny Italian enclave of
Campione (charming position, Casino) on the left, and come to the
border-town of Chiasso (15 miles), where we re-enter Italy.
Two miles more
and we are in Como. Following the shore road, we reach
the middle of town, heading in the direction of a noteworthy group of
buildings which includes the severe Tower with its Gothic-Renaissance facade
(elaborate Porch with statues in cuspidate niches) and its XVI century apse
and dome; insider, tapestries and paintings by B. Luini and G. Ferrari.
From Brunate, which may be reached by funicular railway (2,355 ft.), there is a
magnificent view, of the lake and the Alps. |
The next day should be spent in a tour around the lake. From Como to the
northernmost tip there are some forty miles of unforgettable scenery,
punctuated by towns containing features of extraordinary interest: Cernobbio,
with the XVI century Villa d'Este, now a luxury hotel; Moltrasio, with the
little Romanesque church of S. Agata; Argegno, at the mouth of the Val
d'Intelvi and across from the Island
Comacina (remains of the very old church of S.Eufemia, and an attractive
in). Then we come to Tremezzo, with the best view, of the shoreline as well
as the lovely Villa Carlotta (1747); crossing over by boat to Balbianello
Point, a visit may be paid to the Villa Arconaii. Then there are Cadenabbia,
Menaggio and Gravedona the latter with a severe Romanesque church in S.Maria
del Tiglio and the noble XVI century Palazzo Gallic.
Lecco:From the tip of
the lake, we start down the eastern shore (27,5 miles) to Lecco. On the far
side of a small inlet stands the Romanesque Abbey of Piona, the cloister of
which is the architectural jewel of the lake. We then pass through Bellano,
with its beautiful XIV century church, and Varenna, whence a boat can be
taken to the delightful town of Bellagio with the Serbelloni and Melzi
Villas, set amidst pinewoods and parks that stretch to the very extremity of
its tiny peninsula (Romanesque church of San Giacomo). Continuing from
Varenna, in the shadow of the towering slopes of Mt. Grigna (7,875 ft.), we
pass by LECCO and skirting the little Garlate Lake, we come after 20 miles)
to MONZA, which was an extremely important city under the Longobards. It
boasts a magnificent Cathedral (1396) faced with white, green and black
marble m the Chapel of Queen Teodolinda, lively XV century frescoes; in the
Treasury, the Iron Crown of the Longobard kings of Italy which was worn by
Charles V and Napoleon, the XIII century Arengario, at one time the Town
Hall, and the splendid Royal Park, where the Motor-Race Track is to be
found.
Milano: You should reserve at least two days to visit Milan,
interesting is also the visit on
foot to the center of Milan.
Itinerary courtesy of ENIT
Travel Italy
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