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Nature and Art in Sardinia
Sardinia is an island in every sense of the word; its culture is of
native origin, it lies a long way from the mainland and it still astonishes
the visitor by the violent natural contrasts between its bare, rocky coasts
and its gentle rolling inland plateaux, and by the variety of cultures found
there. The prehistoric period is more a living fact, and has more evidence
above ground than in most places, mingling, in a way which is sometimes
fascinating, with modern life.
The most notable feature of this is the building fever which has taken the
islanders since Sardinia was opened up to tourists, and which has attacked a
society still for the most part patriarchal. The original inhabitants had a
lively and original taste in building which is found in the famous nuraghs,
and were no mean sculptors, as can be seen from the quantity of, local
bronzes. The Greek world hardly touched Sardinia, and in the great carve-up
of the Mediterranean in classical times it fell under the domination of the
Phoenicians, then of the Carthaginians.
Rome then assimilated it and left its mark, more notable here than in many
parts of the Italian mainland. It was fought for by Genoa and Pisa during
the Middle Ages, while developing autonomous forms of government, such as
the a giudicato > unusual among medieval political institutions.
The Aragonese held it until the 18th century, when it became part of the
territory of the Kingdom of Sardinia, from which the modern state of Italy
grew. |
The itinerary:
OLBIA, a pretty seaport town with one of the finest
Romanesque churches on the island, San Simplicio (11 th century), elegant
and intact in its simple lines, in an isolated position. But our attention
is mainly drawn by the astonishing richness of the natural beauty afforded
by the views of the jagged coastline which consists of three bays as we go
north from Olbia, the Bays of Armed, Marinella and Arzachena. The central
stretch of this wonderful landscape of rocks, caves and beaches is the
"Emerald Coast", whose recent tourist development is Sardinia's strongest
holiday attraction today . The road from Arzachena to Palau is a succession
of of breath-taking view. among rocky hill and valleys strewn with great
boulders of granite which give an unmistakable impression of the prehistory
of mankind.
At Palau, take the ferry to the Island of the Maddalena,
whence one can reach by motor-road, through a pinewood, the adjoining Island
of Caprera, famous as the last home of Garibaldi who died here and was
buried near his home, which is now a museum open to the public.
Setting off
again from Palau we take the road to Santa Teresa Gallura (25 km. - 16 3/4
mi.) on the northernmost point of Sardinia, within sight of Corsica. At
nearby Capo Testa, landing place for ships in the Middle Ages, round columns
on the beach remind us that the Romans passed this way. One can spend the
night either at Santa Teresa or go inland to Tempio Pausania, the chief town
of the Gallura district, in a fine hilly landscape.
The granite of its
buildings gives it a certain sober elegance, even through the forms are
rustic and tugged. There is a fine Romanesque Oratory with Baroque
additions, a Cathedral founded in the 15th century and some of the houses
have fine facades. |
La Maddalena Island - Photo © fredducci |
From Tempio, go down to the River Coghinas (66 m.-206 ft)
to climb again to Perfugas, with the fine Aragonese-Gothic church of San
Giorgio; in the interior, a fine altar-piece by an early 16th century
Sardinian painter; continue west to the turning for Castel Sardo; shortly
after haying taken this turning we come to the impressive Pisan Romanesque
church of San Pietro delle Immagini (13th cent.) of black and white stone,
lust before entering Bulzi. In a splendid landscape, now climb up to Sedini
(8.5 km. (5 1/4 mi.) from the turning) with the fine church of Sant'Andrea
(1517) in Aragonese style and the picturesque Domus de janas, an ancient
tomb complex later transformed into dwellings. Near the town the picturesque
ruins of San Nicola de Silanis, Lombard-Benedictine of the 1211, century.
Past Campo di Sedini, a wonderful marine landscape opens
up. High up to the right we see the ruins of the Roman Baths of Castel Doria
and those of an ancient castle. On the way down we pass the trachylic mass
known as The Elephant because of its shape and arrive at Cartel Sardo, a
town of Genoese origin, on a promontory with picturesque streets, and a late
Gothic Cathedral in which there are some important paintings by local
artists. From Castel Sardo, go west towards the coast road, passing Porto di
Frigiano, with a Spanish Tower, to arrive at the nearby Nostra Signora de
Tergu, now in ruins but once the finest Benedictine monastery in Sardinia
(11th cent.). Twenty-one km. (13 mi.) from Castel Sardis is Sorso near which
there are several nuraghi. Another 14 km. (8 3/4 mi.) brings us to PORTO
TORRES.
PORTO TORRES a harbor of Carthaginian origin, with a fine
Roman Bridge, ruins of baths, a 14th century Watch-Sower and the beautiful
Pisan-Lombard basilica of San Gavino (11th century) with a magnificent Portal
and important Roman Sarcophagus (3dr century) in the interior. Nineteen
kilometers from Porto Torres and we are at SASSARI.
Sassari - Photo © new_reads |
SASSARI provincial capital of medieval origin, with a
lively and imaginative Cathedral in Spanish Colonial style with fine Gothic
interior (inside, Madonna by 14th century Florentine artist); the Romanesque
church of Santa Maria di Betlem with an elegant 13th century fountain in the
cloister. The National Museum houses a rich archaeological collection and a
Picture Gallery with works by Sardinian and Tuscan Primitives, a Madonna by
Bartolomeo Vivarini, another by the Flemish painter Mabuse and some 1711,
century canvases including a St. Anne by Stanzione. We now set off again for
Alghero, making a long detour in the environs to see some magnificent
architecture, the Abbey of the Santissima Trinita (16.5 km. - 10 mi. from
Sassari) in a lonely setting full of colour and charm, a wonderful example
of the Pisan Romanesque style; in the interior, frescoes by a 13th century
painter from Latium.
We now continue to climb as far as Ardara and the
elegant Lombard Romanesque church of Santa Maria del Regno, comprising nave
and two aisles, plain and solemn with an altarpiece by a late Gothic
painter. Running through the hills for 13 km. (8 mi.) we reach State Highway
SS 131 which we take to Torralba, after which comes the junction with SS 131
bis; close by are two of the most imposing and famous nuraghi, that of S.
Antine and that called Oes (Ox), o fa particularly striking shape. We now
take SS 131 bis for Alghero; near the town of Thiesi is Borutta with a fine
Pisan Romanesque church, San Pietro di Sorres (12th century). Passing
through Ittiri, another 16 km. (10 mi.) brings us to ALGHERO. |
ALGHERO, once a stronghold of the Genovese Doria family,
then an Aragonese domain; here we shall spend the night. The Catalan Gothic
Cathedral stands in a typical medieval setting, with San Fran-cesco (16th
century cloister) and Casa Doria; on the sea front rises the round Torre di
Sulis, a remnant of the Renaissance fortifications. From Alghero a trip of
13 km. (8 mi.) northwards takes us along a fascinating coastline to Capo
Caccia, an extraordinary cliff of pink limestone overlooking the sea, in
which opens the unreal, magical Grotto of Neptune, one of the natural
wonders of the Mediterranean. Returning to Alghero we now take State Highway
SS 292 which rises towards Monteleone (many nuraghi in the neighbourhood)
and on through fine hill country to Padria (49 km. - 30 mi.), an ancient
town of prehistoric origin, with the church of Santa Giulia, Aragonese
Gothic (1520). A short trip of 12 km. (7 1/2 mi.) brings us back on to State
Highway SS 131. Just before the road junction is Semestene, where stands the
small Romanesque church of San Niccolo di Trullas. Following the state
highway for another 17 km. (10 3/4 mi.) we arrive at MACOMER.
MACOMER, where we can spend the night. Half a day might be
given up to exploring the hinterland of Macomer; take State Highway 129 to
Silanus (10 km. 6 1/4 mi.) famous for its prehistoric architecture (nuraghi)
and its medieval buildings such as the pre-Romanesque church of Santa
Sarbana and the Romanesque church of San Lorenzo, the two elements blending
perfectly: in the far distance, the massif of Monte Gennargentu. Going back
to Macomer, we turn south, to reach Abbasanta after 16 km. (10 mi.), near
which stands, just outside the town, the Losa Nuraghe, one of the most
important on the island. From Abbasanta, a short trip of 5 km. (3 mi.) east
through Ghilarza and Zuri with the two churches of San Palmerio and San
Pietro brings use to the shores of Lake Omodeo, formed after 1923 by the
building of the great dam across the River Tirso. Now returning to the State
Highway, we reach Tramatza after a further 21 km. (13 mi.). From here, a
detour to the right of 6 km. (3 3/4 mi.) brings us to Mills where stands the
little church of San Paolo in the midst of orange groves. Returning to the
State Highway we now rapidly reach ORISTANO.
ORISTANO (51 km. - 32 mi. from Macomer). It has some fine
16th century house fronts, a medieval Tower, a Cathedral of the high Middle
Ages rebuilt in the 18th century. Spending the night at Oristano we set off
south the next morning. We pass the church of Santa Giusta, one of the
finest examples of Sardinian Romanesque, on a high knoll. We are now running
through the pleasant plain of Campidano.
At a turning 16 km. (10 mi.) from Oristano we leave State Highway 126 on the right and continue along SS 131;
after Uras we begin to climb slowly among hills and nuraghi: after 14 km. we
arrive at Sardara with the fine little Romanesque Gothic church of San
Gregorio. At Sanluri (10 km. - 6 1/4 mi. from Sardara) we turn right on the
State Highway SS 197 which brings us to Guspini (24 km. - 15 mi.) at the
foot of Monte Arcuentu. We now take SS 126 and after 4.5 km. (2 3/4 mi.) we
are at Arbus; the road now runs along the edge of the plateau with fine
views over the sea. |
Oristano - Photo © Al-Pin |
We pass Fluminimaggiore and enter on a fine run through
rocky gorges and valleys covered with olives, almond-trees and ilexes, to
arrive at IGLESIAS.
IGLESIAS (52 km. - 32 1/2 mi, from Guspini). This is a town of medieval
origin with some fine churches, the Cathedral of 1288, the Gothic San
Francesco and Santa Maria di Valverde (13th cent.) with a beautiful
facade. We spend the night at Iglesias and set out again, leaving the
mining town of Carbonia on our left to reach San Giovanni Suergiu (30
km. - 18 3/4 mi. from Iglesias); here we go on to the nearby Island of
Sant'Antioco over a Roman Bridge to arrive at Calasetta, a picturesque
little town of Oriental appearance overlooking the sea (20 km. - 12 1/2
mi.); before us is the Island of San Pietro.
One may lunch in one of the
rustic restaurants of the district before returning to San Giovanni Suergiu where we take once more to State Highway SS 126. After 2 km.
there is a turning leading to Tratalias with the austere Lombard-Pisan
church of Santa Maria of 1213. Continuing along SS 126 we go round the
southernmost tip of the island with Capes Teulada and Spartivento (the "
Windsplitter ") and return towards Cagliari. Between Giba and Teulada
there are a number of nuraghi, while to the right of Pula (71 km. - 44
1/2 mi. from San Giovanni Suergiu) we can see the ruins of the Roman
theatre of the ancient city of Nora, first Carthaginian and then Roman.
From here, another 29 km. (18 mi.) brings us to CAGLIARI.
CAGLIARI, once a Carthaginian port, then an important Roman
city, fought for by Pisa and Genoa in the Middle Ages, falling under the
rule of the Aragonese in the 14th century. We shall devote a day of our
journey to the city. The most ancient and interesting part stands on the
hill between the modern streets of Via Mannu and Via Regina Elena. Let us
begin by visiting the Umberto I Terrace, like a spur over the city and
harbour, vrithin sight of the ruined walls of the Castle. Narrow streets
lead us towards the Cathedral, Romanesque but with a recently rebuilt
facade.
There are two superb works of art in the interior, the pulpit,
carved by Maestro Guglielmo between 1159 and 1162 for the Cathedral of Pisa,
and which the Tuscan city gave to Cagliari, and the Altar-piece by the
Fleming Gerard David which a Spanish soldier left here in a fit of remorse,
having looted it in during the Sack of Rome (1527). Through Via Martini Lo
Piazza Indipendenza where stands the Archaeological Museum, the most
important on the island, with a wealth of bronze statuettes (over 400) of
the Nuraghic age of the 8th-5th centuries BC and of Punic, Greek and Roman
sculpture.
In the Pictures Gallery are collections of works by Spanish and
Sardinian painters. Along Via Buon Cammino we go down to the majestic Roman
Amphitheatre, carved out of the side of the mountain. And from here, through
the paths of the Botanical Gardens, we can mach the elegant Baroque church
of San Michele from which, through Via Sassari, we reach the Palazzo
Comunale, rebuilt in Aragonese style since the war (tapestries and paintings
inside). In the lower part of the city the ruins of San Domenico, destroyed
by bombing in the last war, are still to be seen; part of the Aragonese
Gothic Cloister remains.
Nuraghi Sabina - Photo © gymothy |
We now go to the extreme southeastern tip of the island;
leaving Cagliari we pass Quartu Sant'Elena (fine altar-piece in the Parish
Church) and take the coast road through fine landscapes and luxuriant orange
groves to Villasimius (45 km. - 28 mi. from Cagliari) on Cape Carbonara from
which we climb to Cape delta Marina (important nuraghi near here). We pass
Castiadas to arrive at San Priamo (27 km. - 17 mi. from Villasimius) and
follow State Highway SS 125 to the River Flumendosa (10 km. - 6 1/4 mi.) and
Muravera. Here we strike inland following the course of the Flumendosa to
Ballao (32 km. - 20 mi. from Muravera) from which 28 km. (17 1/2 mi.) of
picturesque road bring us to Sant'Andrea Frius and after a further 16 km.
(10 mi.) to Dolianova with the 13th century church of San Pantaleone, the
most noteworthy Romanesque monument in Southern Sardinia; close to Dolianova
is Serdiana with interesting rural architecture.
We now return (20 km. - 12
1/2 mi.) to Cagliari, from which we set out the next morning for Monastir
(21 km. - 13 mi. from Cagliari) a pleasant town of Oriental appearance. Then
comes Nuraminis, a picturesque country place with a fine 16th century
Cathedral.
At the turning to Carter (40 km. - 25 mi.) take State Highway SS
197 through Saaluri and Villamar (important altarpiece in church) to
Barumini with remains of a Nuraghic village and the Su Nuraxi Nuraghe,
perhaps the most architecturally important in Sardinia. There are other fine
nuraghi near Nuragus (70 km. 43 1/4 mi. from Cagliari). |
We are now on a
lonely mountain road (the peaks of Monte Gennargentu begin to appear to our
right, facing us) and we go through Laconi rising on to the plateau at Pranu
Guttutorgiu to re descend at Meana, Atzara, with a fine Gothic Parish church
in the midst of vineyards and orchards and finally SORGONO.
SORGONO where we may spend the night. There is a fine
Baroque church in the town and in the environs the splendid late Gothic
church of San Mauro di Sorgono with an elegant rose-window in the facade.
The next day we continue north; after 8 km. (5 mi.) we leave Tonara, at the
foot of Monte Gennargentu, to our right and climb to Ovodda (20 km. - 12 1/2
mi.) from Sorgono, passing the little church of San Pietro at a height of
800 meters (2604 ft.); at 30 km. (18 3/4 mi.) from Sorgono we leave the road
to Fonni on the right to reach Gavoi with its church of San Gavino (16th
century) and keep on along the lonely mountain road through Orant to descend
at 61 km. (38 mi.) from Sorgono on to State Highway SS 129, turning right to
reach NUORO.
NUORO after 15 km. (9 1/2mi.) . Here we spend the night. Before leaving we should
take a trip of 54 km. (33 3/4 mi.) through the mountains to see the rugged
and picturesque little towns of Marmoiada, Orgosolo and Oliena bringing us
at the end of the morning to State Highway SS 129 which after 36 km. (233/4
mi.) through La Traversa and Galtelli brings is to OROSEI.
OROSEI with a fine church of Oriental appearance. From
Orosci 92 km. (57 1/2 mi.) of beautiful coast road bring us to Olbia, where
we started from. To follow this route comfortably, between eight and ten
days will be required.
Itinerary partly courtesy of ENIT
Travel Italy
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