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Cities and Courts in the Po Valley
Part 2: From Venice to Milan
This is the continuation of itinerary: Cities and Courts in the Po Valley Part 1 from Milan to Venice
The itinerary:
At least two days should
be spent in Venice
We still have to visit the islands of Murano, Burano and most of all, Torcello, the most enchanting spot in the
Lagoon. |
Leaving Venice by the Padua road and passing through
Mestre (5 miles), we will not take the Autostrada, but rather the National
Highway no. 11, which runs along the banks of the Brenta. Here the great
Venetian families built their famous country villas which, taken as a body, constitute the most
important example of residential architecture in existence.
We can neither
describe nor list them. They follow one another in uninterrupted succession,
all more or less celebrated, up to the outskirts of Padua. Most worthy of
being seen is the Villa Foscari (known as the Malcontenta), in a romantic
and secluded position on the road to Fusina.
From here we return to the main road for Padua: the
astonishing series of villas, built over a span of 300 years, goes on,
through the towns of Cringe, Mira, and Dean: at Stra is the celebrated Villa
Pisani (1756), now belonging to the State, with its magnificent park, its
maze, and its sumptuous interior, where many crowned heads have stayed,
including Napoleon.
Particularly noteworthy is the glowing fresco painted by
Tiepolo at the age of 66 on the ceiling of the reception-hall. Passing by
still other villas, through Noventa Padovana, we reach 17 miles from Mestre
the city of Padua,
well worth one day of visit. |
Villa Pisani maze - Photo © North Sullivan |
Leaving Padua, we take the road to Monselice, and 27 miles
from Padua we reach the city of ROVIGO.
ROVIGO: Founded in about the 9th century,
it was subsequently a possession of the Este family and then of Venice. We
enter it by Viale Porta Adige and then, taking Viale Trieste, we come to the
late 16th century Rotonda or Church of the Madonna del Soc corso, containing
17th century paintings. We then make for Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, a
handsome Venetian square where we will find the Palazzo Roncale (1555),
designed by Sammicheli, and the neo-classical palace of the Accademia dei
Concordi, with an excellent collection of paintings (works by G. Bellini,
Carpioni, Pittoni. Piazzetta, Longhi, Tiepolo, Holbein the Elder,
Tintoretto). The Picture Gallery of the Episcopal Seminary is important with
fine works esp. of the 18th century.
From Rovigo, after a 23 mile drive over the plain of the
Po Delta, we reach the Po, at Pontelagoscuro, and then immediately enter FERRARA, well worth one day visit.
In the afternoon of the twelth day of our trip, we leave
Ferrara by the Porta Reno and take the State Highway SS 64 which 30 miles
further on brings us to BOLOGNA
Bologna - Palazzo del Podesta' |
At least half a day should be dedicated to Bologna.
Leaving Bologna by Porta Sam Felice, we follow the Via
Emilia for some 23 miles until we reach MODENA.
Half a day should be reserved to visit Modena
Leaving Modena, we head for Nonantola (6 miles from
Modena) with its splendid Romanesque Abbey (12th century) attributed to
Lanfranco, the architect who designed Modena Cathedral, and from here (15
miles) to CARPI where, facing onto a spacious square, is an imposing
medieval Castle, completed in the 16th century by a magnificent courtyard.
Then there is the charming arcade with 15th century buildings and the
Cathedral, also 15th century, designed perhaps by Peruzzi. |
Another 17 miles bring us to Reggiolo, also with a
medieval castle, and then in the direction of the Po we go another 8 miles
and reach GUASTALLA, another tiny capital of the Gonzage Direly, with a 15th
century Palace and Cathedral and a Romanesque Parish Church where two
Councils were held.
We now pass along the banks of the Po, cross the river
beyond Boretto, over a modern bridge reach Viadana and 15 miles from
Guastalla, SABBIONETA, whose subsequent decline into being no more than a
country village has certainly not eliminated the evidence of its
aristocratic, classical buildings, begotten of the civilized and poetic
dream of a great Renaissance soldier-prince, Duke Vespasiano Gonzaga, who
established it as his capital, the little Athens on the Po, as it came to he
called. We will see the sumptuous Galleria delle Antichita, plundered over
the centuries by irresponsible vandals; and still standing in front of it, a
statue of Pallas Athene on a lofty Corinthian column.
Then there is the splendid Church of the Incoronata, with
its memorial to Vespasiano Gonzaga, a magnificent bronze by Leone Lenin (end
of 16th century), the Ducal Palace, with its splendid ceiling and beautiful
wooden statues of the members of the Gonzaga family, and the Teatro Olimpico,
designed by Scamozzi.
Leaving Sabbioneta, we head for Casalmaggiore (4 miles),
cross the Po and passing by Colorno, the lavish summer Palace of the Parma
dukes (1660-1728), reach (15 miles from Casalmaggiore) the city of PARMA, which we
will visit in the evening of the penultimate day of our trip and on the
following morning.
LLeaving Parma, we head towards FIDENZA with is notable
Gothic-Romanesque Cathedral full of Romanesque sculptures. But before
reaching Fidenza, we would suggest making a detour to Fontanellato in order
to see one of the most beautiful princely castles in Emiha, the Rocca
(12th-16th century) of the Sanvitale princes, which contains frescoes showing
scenes of a joyously pagan Tranquillity by Parmigianino.From Fidenza, some
22 miles along the Via Emilia, we come to the famous Certosa, the
Charterhouse of Parma, about 2,5 mi. from the city center. Leaving Parma, we
head towards FIDENZA with is notable Gothic-Romanesque Cathedral full of
Romanesque sculptures.
But before reaching Fidenza, we would suggest making a
detour to Fontanellato in order to see one of the most beautiful princely
castles in Emilia, the Rocca (12th-16th century) of the Sanvitale princes,
which contains frescoes showing scenes of a joyously pagan Tranquility by
Parmigianino. From Fidenza, some 22 miles along the Via Emilia, we come to PIACENZA,
a city with an extremely ancient history.
We come in by way of Via Roma, where we see the Basilica
air San, Savino; its facade was altered in the 18th century, although the
interior and the crypt still preserve their Romanesque forms. On the same
side of Via Roma, is the handsone 15th century Palazzo dei Tribunali, with
its precious doorway, and the Cathedral, a stately Romanesque structure with
loggias set into the facade and along the sides, and an impressive interior. |
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From the Cathedral, we pass on to the Basilica di S. Antonino (11th century)
with its magnificent polygonal Tower. Taking Via Verdi and Corso Vittorio
Emanuele, we reach Piazza Cavalli, with the fine crenellated Palazzo
Comunale (1281) with its three- and four-light windows, the two fine
equestrian statues of Farnese princes by Mochi, and the Gothic church of S.
Francesco (1278).
Other important monuments include the Romanesque church of
S. Giovanni in Canale San Sisto, and the famous Sanctuary of the Madonna dei
Campo at the opposite end of the town. We might also visit the Pinacoteca
Alberoni Painting Gallery with the Christ at the Pilot by Antonello da
Messina, as well as a number of Flemish paintings.
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We continue then to Pavia, where we visit
the city.
Before arriving back in Milan by the Ticinese Gate, we come, after a short
5 miles, to one
of the most famous monuments in Italy, standing by itself in the open
countryside: the CERTOSA DI PAVIA (charterhouse), founded by Gian Galeazzo Visconti (1396) as a fatuity
mausoleum and completed during the Renaissance, which here reaches the
loftiest expression it was to achieve in all of Lombardy.
A visit to the
church, to the charming small cloister, to the large cloister, the Library,
the many beautiful statuary groups (among them the tomb of Ludovico il Moro
and Beatrice Sforza) and the paintings (by Perugino, Borgognone, Luini) will
take up part of the morning.
Itinerary partly courtesy of ENIT |
Travel Italy
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