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Adriatic and Venetian Civilization
Part 2: From Bolzano to Venice
This is the continuation of the itinerary: Adriatic and Venetian Civilization Part 1 from Venice to Bolzano
BOLZANO: This ancient city at
the meeting point of three rivers (the Adige, the Isarco and the Talvera)
preserves a quaint atmosphere of old houses, towers, porticoes,
courtyards and Alpine architecture. There is a handsome Gothic Cathedral
(14th century) with a stone pulpit of German workmanship, and a Baroque
altar. In the Gothic Franciscan Church, we find a carved altar by Hans
Klocker and a graceful little cloister. In the Dominican Church, there
are frescoes of the Romagna school (Gothic, about 1340) and a Madonna of
the Veronese School.
The interesting Museum houses Italian and German
works of art, and beautiful products of local handicrafts. A pleasant
evening may be spent wandering through Bolzano's elegant and picturesque
streets. |
The next morning, after 37 miles on the Brenner Highway or the
new Autostrada we reach TRENTO.
We spend the day visiting Trento.
On the morning of the next day, we leave Trento by the road which
crosses the Adige and heads towards Vezzano, Arche, and Bagni di Comano,
a lovely drive through pine woods to Arco (26 miles from Trento). This
little town, dominated by an ancient Castle perched on a cliff was a
famous holiday resort at the time of the Austrian Empire. Three more
miles and we reach RIVA
DEL GARDA.
RIVA DEL GARDA, magnificently situated at the northermost tip of Lake
Garda, the largest Italian lake. Riva still preserves some medieval
walls, a 13th century Tower and a Parrocchiale (Parish Church) with 16th
century paintings, as well as the 14th century Palazzo Pretorio.
In order to go down the lake, we will choose the road along the west
side, which we should drive by day passing by magnificent views, through
tunnels and below cliffs. We pass through Limone and Tremosine, from
which, on the opposite shore, may be seen the town of Malcesine with its
beautiful towers, at the foot of majestic Mt. Battle. The road carries
on along the foot of cliffs of red rock overhanging the lake; typical
Mediterranean vegetation begins to appear in the form of orange and
olive trees. Passing through Campione and the tiny port-town of Tignale,
we come (18 miles from Riva) to Gargnano, with its beautiful Romanesque
Church and 15th century cloister and sculptures. Less than a mile away we
come to Bogliaco, with its vast Villa Bittern (18th century), and
Toscolano Maderno, an ancient village with a Romanesque church 14th
century frescoes inside and the Palazzo Gonzaga (1600). Continuing along
the lake, beneath slopes clothed with olive groves and cypresses, we
come to GARDONE.
GARDONE RIVERA, holiday resort is also famous for the remarkable group
of buildings known as the Vittoriale, the museum-residence of Gabriele
d'Annunzio (1863-1938), the great Italian poet, and a heroic military
figure of the 1915-1918 War.
Immediately after Gardone comes the ancient town of SALO' with its old palaces and narrow streets, and a handsome Lombard gothic
Cathedral with a Renaissance doorway and a sober interior (Polyptych by
Paolo Veneziano, elaborate Gothic altar-piece on the high altar,
paintings by Veronese and by Brescian artists). From Salo, after some 12
miles through rolling countryside of vineyards and turreted castles, we
come to Desenzano.
One full day should be reserved to visit Verona
The next morning we leave Verona early and after a fine
drive (32 miles), skirting the hills, come to Vicenza. |
Salo' Piazza - Photo © giovanni4648 |
Leaving Vicenza, and travelling some 14 miles along the
foot of Monte Grappa, we reach Cittadella, standing within its marvelous 14th
century walls, and after another 7 miles, Castetfranco the birthplace of
Giorgione, with its red medieval walls, its Castle, its old painted house
and the Cathedral which contains, together with works by Veronese and
Bassano, one of Giorgione's masterpieces: a Madonna, painted in 1504.
From Rovigo, after a 23 mile drive over the plain of the
Po Delta, we reach the Po, at Pontelagoscuro, and then immediately enter FERRARA, well worth one day visit.
We then proceed to RAVENNA, also worth one day visit.
We leave Ravenna by the Via Real and skirting now the sea, now the
marshes, at present in the process of being, we come to COMACCHIO
COMACCHIO, which stands next to where the Etruscan city of Spina lies
buried. it is a charming little town, with picturesque views from time
to time along its canals, such as at the spot known as Treponti.
Seventeen miles from Comacchio we come upon the magnificent Abbey of
Pomposa, an ancient ecclesiastical fief, and a highly important cultural
and political center during the Middle Ages. The beautiful 9th century
church with its Romanesque bell-tower (157-ft. high) now .stands
isolated in the open countryside. Next to it is the Refectory with
frescoes which may be considered the masterpiece of 141 century Emilian
painting, and across the way, the Palazzo delta Ragione, where the
feudal bishops administered justice.
Carrying on towards the Po, for another seven miles, we reach Mesola,
the picturesque village which grew up around a former Hunting Lodge
(1583) of the Este Family. After crossing the flat plain, through which
the various branches of the Po thread their way, we reenter Venetia at
Contarina (47 miles from Ravenna). Crossing several more rivers,
including the Adige, we reach (19 miles from Contarina) CHIOGGIA.
CHIOGGIA, an enchanting town which looks rather like a country cousin of
Venice. It stands on a group of islands-crossed by three large canals
and is, at one and the same time, town and port for the fishermen, whose bragozzi (fishing-smacks), with their brightly colored sails, serve to
liven both the sea and the waterways.
Fine churches, such as San Domenico, San Giacomo and the elaborate Gothic
San Martino and public monuments, such as the 17th century Vigo Bridge,
remind us that the Queen of the Adriatic is not far off. In fact, from
Chioggia, keeping left round the shore of the Lagoon, we reach (25
miles) the main Padua-Venice road, between Dolo and Mira, and then,
passing by the marvelous series of splendid 17th and 18th century villas along the Brenta, soon arrive in Venice.
Itinerary partly courtesy of ENIT
Travel Italy
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