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Where the name of Italy was born
Part 2: From Roccaraso to Pesaro
This is the return portion of the itinerary: Where the name of Italy was born
The Marches and the Abruzzi are a part of Italy not very well known to the
international tourist. It is not just a question of doing justice to
these areas by recommending them to the tourist; the tourist himself
will make some fascinating discoveries, because these areas are no less
rich in art treasures and natural beauties than others much more famous.
There are mighty Roman ruins, wonderful churches and abbeys, Renaissance
palaces, picture galleries rich, particularly in works of the Venetian
School (to know the rare works of Crivelli or Lotto, one must visit the
galleries of the Marches). Then there is the majestic mountain scenery
of the Maiella and the Gran Sasso, and the long golden sands of the
Adriatic beaches. |
There is yet another reason for visiting these parts. Everyone. knows of
the exploits of the other peoples of Italy, the Eruscans in the north
and the Greeks in the south: but these peoples, even if they became
acclimatized, were foreigners, they came from beyond the sea. The
Marches and Umbria were populated and civilized by native people, the
Italic. On this route, we shall pass through the ruins of an ancient
city, Corfinium.
In 90 BC the people of this city rose against Rome, and made it the
capital of their state, giving it a name destined to have a very long
life - Italia. That ancient Italia was overwhelmed and defeated. But the
name remained, and long outlived Roman power, to spread to the whole of
Italy.
The itinerary: Part 2 - From Roccaraso to Pesaro
We climb
to century RIVISONDOLI (1210 m. - 3969 ft.) a mountain resort, where we
shall spend the night, or in nearby ROCCARASO. The next day we set out on
the beautiful "ring road of the Abruzzi", a long balcony commanding most
stupendous views . It runs along the massif of the Maiella 2800 m. - 9164
ft.) towards Lama dei Peligni (2298 ft.) and GUARDIAGRELE at 61 km. 37 3/4
mi.) from Rivisondoli, with two splendid churches, San Francisco and Santa
Maria Maggiore, with a picturesque rustic portico along one side From
Guardiagrele 30 km. (18 3/4 mi.) of road bring us to CHIETI.
CHIETI, ancient Teate standing on a pleasant hill with fine views over
the Maiella, the Gran Sasso and the Adriatic.
Outstanding monuments to visit: the Roman ruins of the city include
three small temples of the late I century AD, the Roman theatre, the
barbs of the I century AD with a large storage tank dug into the
hillside.
The cathedral with a slender bell tower of the 15th century and a rich
Baroque crypt containing the silver bust of St Justin by Nicola da
Guardiagrele. The Archaeological Museum rich in finds ranging from the
VII century BC to the II century AD, including the famous statue of the
"Warrior of Capestrano" of the late VI century BC and the well-stocked
provincial library with precious incunabula and the Mss of "Il Piacere"
and "La Figlia di Jorio" by Gabriele d'Annunzio.
Leaving Chieti drive towards the Adriatic, reaching, after 12 miles
PESCARA, the largest and most up-to-date city in Abruzzo, birthplace of
Gabriele d'Annunzio. Worthy of a visit are: d'Annunzio's birthplace, the
stela of the d'Annunzio Memorial Theatre and the painting, by F.P.
Michetti, of "The Daughter of Jorio" in the Palazzo della Provincia.
PESCARA has 6 1/2 miles of seaside promenade, wide sandy beaches and a
large number of bathing stations; it has become the most popular resort
in the Mid-Adriatic. On the tenth day take the splendid seaside drive
that links Francavilla through the Pescara pinewood to the important
resort of MONTESILVANO, from which leave the coast to climb along the
national highway up the eastern slopes of the Gran Sasso to LORETO
APRUTINO, a pretty town on a hill; there are 12th-13th century frescoes in
the church of Santa Maria in Piano (13th cent.). The Acerbo Gallery
contains ancient Abruzzo pottery. From here it is a short distance to
PENNE (19 mi. from Pescara), a city of proud Roman, medieval and
Risorgimento traditions. To be seen: the church of San Domenico and that
of the Annunziata, the Cathedral, the church of Santa Maria in
Colleromano; another 26 kms (16 1/4 mi.) brings us to the turning for
ATRI with a splendid Romanesque Cathedral (Gothic interior with fine
frescoes-the most important cycle in the Abruzzi) and other Romanesque
churches. From Atri the road descends to the sea again (15 km. - 9 1/2
mi.) at Pineto degli Abruzzi, from which one arrives at GIULIANOVA.
There may be time for a swin at Giulianova before climbing up again to
TERAMO
TERAMO (25 km. - 15 1/2 mi.) an ancient Picenian city
which later became Roman and then Longobard. Fine Cathedral with richly
decorated Portal (1332), in which there is the frontal by Nicola da
Guardiagrele and a superb Altar-Piece by Iacobello del Fiore (15th century).
On the next day of the journey we leave Teramo early in
the morning for 37 km. (23 mi.) of driving through mountains and gorges
which bring us to ASCOLI PICENO.
ASCOLI PICENO, an inhabited center since the Bronze
Age, rich in Romanesque and medieval monuments. This wonderful city will
come as a complete surprise to the foreign visitor, who may very well never
have heard of it. Our program envisages seeing it on the afternoon of the
eleventh day and the morning of the twelfth. We will begin at Piazza del
Popolo, which for its sober elegance is one of the finest piazzas in Italy.
On one side is the massive Palazzo del Popolo (13th cent.) with its
Renaissance portal (inside there is an Archaeological Museum).
Through a
perspective of two small battlemented 16th century palaces, we see at one
end the side wall, apses and slim hexagonal bell-towers of San Francesco.
Near the porch of this church, in Corso Mazzim, is the elegant Merchants'
Loggia (15th century) which continues the architecture of the facade, one
side is open and is used as a busy market, the other is closed, silent and
peaceful. |
Ascoli Piceno - Photo © paul goyette |
In Piazza dell'Arringo rises the magnificent 17th century Palazzo
dell'Arringo or del Comune with tall caryatids flanking the windows (inside
a rich Art Gallery with works by, primitives, Carlo Crivelli, Titian,
Correggio, Magnasco, Reni, Rubens, Canaletto).
Opposite are the Cathedral and the superb Romanesque
Baptistery, built over a Roman temple. In Via Bonaparte stands the fine
Palazzo Bonaparte 16th century Lombard work. Taking Vial, Repubblica past the
Public Gardens we reach San Vittore, a pretty Romanesque church; along Corso
Mazzini we arrive at Palazzo Malaspina, an imaginatively built and rather
rough building of the 16th century, with a loggia supported on columns carved
to look like tree-trunks.
Going right, along Via Sacconi we arrive at the River
Trento by the ancient solitary Porta Tufilla through which, proceeding along
Via Bartolomei, we arrive at Santa Maria Inter Vineas: here at hand there
are the churches of San Vincenzo with its very rare Romanesque coffered
facade and a Romanesque portal, and San Pietro Martire. Go as far as the
Roman Bridge and then turn back along Via Soderini with its fine Lombard
House, wander through the streets of the fine medieval quarter with its
towers, the ancient severity of its house-fronts and the Romanesque church
of San Giacomo, the Roman Porta Gemina, the Gothic church of Sant'Agostino,
opposite which are the two Towers which give the street its name - Via delle
Torri.
Leave Ascoli by Porta Romana and turn left off the Via
Salaria after 8 km. (5 mi.) to climb between steep mountain slopes (to the
left Monte Vettore 2422 m. - 7933 ft.) to Comunanza (34 km. - 21 1/4 mi.)
and 9 km. (5314 mi.) farther on AMANDOLA with the fine 15th century churches
of Sant'Agostino and San Franceseo (frescoes). The road then drops to
SARNANO, a fine medieval town with the churches of Santa Maria di Piazza and
San Franceseo (inside a rare panel painting by Crivelli) and so to
URBISAGLIA perched on a hill, with its massive 14th century Castle to reach
finally at 49 km. (30 3/4 mi.) from Ascoli, the ABBEY OF FIASTRA (1141) a
wonderful Romanesque Cistercian Basilica Another 10 km. (6 1/4 mi.) brings
us to MACERATA.
MACERATA, an ancient city in a pleasant hill setting between the Potenza
and Chienti valleys. Its most curious monument is an old sports ground,
the Neo-Classical Sferisferio (1829) built for the game of "pallone"
once very popular in the Marches, and where opera seasons with famous
international singers are new held every summer. From here to the
Baroque Cathedral (good tryptych by Nuzi in interior) near which we find
the 18th century Madonna della Misericordia. Along Via Don Minzoni,
leaving Palazzo Marefossi to the right and the ancient University (1290)
to the left, we reach Piazza Liberia with the Palazzo della Prefettura
and the Merchants' Loggia (1490) and the Torre di Piazza. There are fine
buildings in Corso Matteotti including the 16th century Palazzo Ferri
with rhomboid rustication. In the Art Gallery (Piazza Vittorio Veneto),
fine primitive paintings and an expressive Madonna by Crivelli. The next
morning we go down into the valley of the Potenza to Villa Potenza (6
km. - 3 3/4 mi.) near which are the vast ruins of the Roman Helvia
Retina, destroyed by the Visigoths.
Turning to the right, one goes down into the valley, as far as RECANATI,
birthplace of the great 19th century poet Giacomo Leopardi: there is a
group of noteworthy churches here, including San Domenico, with frescoes
by Lorenzo Lotto, Santa Maria di Montemorello next to be noted for a
group of works by Lotto, paintings by primitives, Guercino etc. Going
farther down the valley (11 km. - Tam.) brings us to LORETO.
LORETO, a little town dominated by its Sanctuary, built by
Sangallo, Andrea Sansovino and other architects (1518-1522) and containing
an enormous wealth of works of art, in the church, the treasury and the
adjoining Museum-marbles and bronzes by Benedetto da Maiano, Bandinelli,
Sansovino etc., frescoes and panel and canvas paintings by Melozzo da Forli,
Signorelli, Pomarancio, Garofalo, Lotto, Maratta, Rein, Domenichino, Caracci,
Magnasco-and majolica work, tapestries and jewellery. After 4 km. (2 1/2
mi.) we reach PORTO RECANATI on the Adriatic and take the coast road which
skirts the magnificent spur of Monte Conero, to Sirolo and its beautiful
Romanesque church of Santa Maria di Portonovo by the sea. After 35 km. (21
1/2 mi.) we reach ANCONA.
ANCONA, a city with numerous monuments from all the
periods in its long history. Entering by the Baroque Porta Pia at the
southern extremity of the port we go towards Piazza Garibaldi. Within easy
reach of this point we find the wonderful Portal of Sant'Agostino (1475)
built on to a house when the church was demolished, the central Piazza della
bepubblica with its Neo-classical Theatre, the Palazzo della Prefettura with
its graceful courtyard, the ancient and curious "Fountain of the 33 Jets"
and many rugged arches and severe medieval house-fronts. Wide steps lead us
to the Baroque San Domenico to see Titian's Crucifixion and Guercino's
Annunciation. Then we go to the Romanesque Church of San Pietro, with
important sculpture and the Piazza del Senato and the very fine Palazzo del
Senato which houses the National Museum of the Marches, one of the most
important archaeological collections in Italy, particularly as regards
pre-Roman Adriatic cultures.
Near here, in a fine palace overlooking the sea, is the
important Art Gallery with works by Primitives and also by Crivelli, Lotto,
an exceptional canvas by Titian etc. Opposite this palace the theatrical
Church of the Gesu by Vanvitelli. It is best to ask the way to the
Romanesque Santa Maria della Piazza, the most beautiful church in Ancona,
with its facade composed of a striking series of superimposed Romanesque
loggias. Close at hand is the Gothic Merchants' Loggia with noteworthy
Renaissance sculpture. Then one must go the whole length of Via Vanvitelli
to the Cathedral of San Ciriaco; there is no other cathedral in Italy which
boasts such a position, overlooking a precipice into the sea on a lonely
promontory. It is of Greek Cross plan with a marvelous porch resting on two
carved lions. Lastly, on the end of the jetty there is a Roman Arch built in
honor of Trajan, who built the port of Ancona.
On the last day of our journey we leave Ancona and turn
off at 11 km. (7 mi.) to visit the ABBEY OF CHIARAVALLE (1172) 5 km. (3 mi.)
inland. After another 12 km. (7 1/2 mi.) comes IESI where Frederick II of
Swabia was born, with its beautiful Palazzo della Signoria (15th century) and
a good Art Gallery.
Back on the coast road, we reach SENIGALLIA with its
Cathedral, its 15th century Palazzo Comunale and the 17th century church della
Croce, Three km. (1 3/4 mi.) farther on is the church of Santa Maria delle
Grazie with a Renaissance cloister and a Perugino Madonna.
Then we take the coast road again, which in 34 km. along
the coast (21 1/4 mi.) brings us back to Pesaro.
Itinerary partly courtesy of ENIT
Travel Italy
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