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Castles and Cathedrals in Apulia. This is another land of ancient civilizations
Part 2: From Otranto to Ortona
The itinerary is the return of the itinerary Castles and Cathedrals in Apulia.
OTRANTO (49 km. 30 3/4 mi.), on a knoll overlooking the sea, with a
majestic Castle and a splendid Romanesque Cathedral, whose chief
attraction is the mosaic floor of 1165. It had a bloody past of siege,
rapine and sack: 12,000 of its inhabitants fell victims to the Turks of
Mahomet II in 1480, Martano is 22 km. (13 1/2 mi.) from Otranto on State
Highway SS 16 and another 19 km. (12 mi.) brings us to LECCE. |
LECCE, famous for the flourishing of Baroque architecture
which took place there, whose rich ornamentation was assisted by the warm
yellow of the local stone, which is easy to carve. This wealth of rich, but
refined architecture, caused Gregorovius to call it "the Florence of
Apulia". We can begin to see it from the stage-like Piazza Sant'Oronzo with
the remains of the Roman Amphitheatre in the center, together with one of
the terminal columns of the Appian Way, brought here from Brindisi. The
Palazzo del Senile with Gothic arches and loggia, is very fine; next to it
is the small church of San Marco, built by the Venetians in 1543. We pass on
to the nearby Castle from which we reach the Public Gardens, before which is
the sumptuous Baroque facade of Santa Croce, the purity of whose interior
remids us of Brunelleschi, and the adjoining former Convent of the
Celestines (1695) now the Palazzo del Governo with the important
Castromediano Provincial Museum, a collection of archaeological exhibits
(sculpture, fine Attic vases) and art, including two excellent Venetian
altar-pieces.
Along Via Brindisi we arrive at the 15th century Oratory of
San Francesco di Paola, by Baldassare Peruzzi, from which we proceed to
Porta Napoli (1548) built in honour of Charles V; here we leave the city for
the piazzale of the cementery on which faces the fine church of SS. Nicolo
and Catalan, built in Romanesque style in 1180 and altered in Baroque style
in 1716, but with a pleasant mingling of the styles; the 18th century portal
and cloisters are particularly admirable.
Going back to Porta Napoli, we take the ring road to Santa
Maria del Rosario, from which we take Via Libertini with the churches of
Sant'Anna and Santa Teresa, both Baroque, so reaching the elegant and lively
Piazza del Duomo, with the facade of the Cathedral (1670), of the Bishop's
Palace (1632) and the Seminary (1709) with three arches over the portal and
a note-worthy courtyard. Close by is the Roman Theatre, from which one can
reach the fine church of Sant'Irene in Corso Vittorio Emanuele: passing once
more through Piazza Sant'Oronzo we reach the churches of Santa Chiara and
San Matteo with distinguished Baroque sculpture. Leave Lecce in the late
afternoon to go through Squinzano with a fine Romanesque basilica, Santa
Maria di Cerrale m the neighbourhood (14th and 15th century frescoes), and
arrive after 40 km. (25 mi.) of easy road at BRINDISI.
BRINDISI, an extremely important port in Roman times, which
Caesar tried to block, during the war with Pompey, by driving in piles, the
remains of which were found in 1778. The ancient city stands on a rise,
jutting like a wedge into two arms the steps of the Salita alle Colonne to
the Cathedral; only the apse remains of the Romanesque church in Which
Frederick II married Yolanda of Jerusalem (1225); to rest is Baroque. From
the Cathedral we reach the of the sea which enters by a narrow channel. Our
visit begins and this point; follow Corso Garibaldi to the harbor and turn
left, to find yourself immediately in the fine stepped piazza which marks
the end of the old Appian Way. One of the columns, as we said, is now at
Lecce, the other remains standing, overlooking the sea. Between the severe
facades of ancient buildings we now go up little circular Romanesque church
of San Giovanni al Sepolcro, the architectural gem of the city. Nearby is
the former church of San Benedetto (1080) with a fine portal and interesting
Cloister.
Supposing that sightseeing in Brindisi has taken part of
the morning, we now leave past the Swabian Castle, running round the Seno di
Ponente (Western Sound) to take Via Ciciriello and Via Brin to the church of
Santa Maria del Casale, an attractive example of Gothic-Romanesque
architecture with excellent Byzantine and 14th century frescoes. Going north
for 20 km. (12 1/2 mi,) we reach San Vito dei Normanni, the Carovigno (fine
15th century Castle) and 34 km. (21 1/4 mi.) from Brindisi, OSTUNI, high on
its hill with a superb Cathedral (Gothic) and a picturesque medieval
quarter. Another 23 km. (14 mi.) brings us to FASANO, where we turn left for
ALBEROBELLO.
ALBEROBELLO, both picturesque and interesting because it
consists of about 1000 trulli, low buildings with nigh conical roofs. At
Alberobello we might have lunch and then proceed to MONOPOLI (24 km. - 14
3/4 mi.) with its Romanesque church of Santa Maria Amalfitana, its Castle,
built by Frederick II, and a Veronese Madonna in the Palazzo Comunale. Going
back inland for 16 km. we arrive at the Grotte di Castellana discovered in
1938, the most impressive series of caves in Italy.
Another 10 km. (6 1/4
mi.) and we are at Conversano, with its mighty Norman-Swabian Castle. The
Cathedral has a fine facade and there is the harmoniously planned Cloister
of San Benedetto; yet another 10 km. (6 1/4 mi.) brings us to Rutigliano,
with the church of Santa Maria alla Colonna, with a noteworthy portal. Nine
kilometers (6 mi.) from Rutigliano is Adelfia on State Highway SS 100, on
which we turn right, reaching after 15 km. (9 1/2 mi.).
BARI,
a great modern city to look at, but founded in pre-Roman times. The ancient
nucleus with a group of wonderful Romanesque churches survives almost
intact, with its ramps, flights of steps and walls, in a small and compact
medieval borough on the little peninsula. Here we find the Cathedral of
Byzantine architecture (1034-1062), rebuilt in Apulian Romanesque style in
1292 and afterwards completely spoiled by Baroque alterations which have
ruined the facade; its best parts are the side walls, the mighty apse and
the noble dome. |
Alberobello - Photo © valpopando |
The interior has been cleaned of the Baroque stucco-work
which spoiled it and contains some fine Venetian canvases. Proceeding
through the narrow and picturesque streets of the old town we come to San
Nicola, the first and most important church to be built in Bari after the
Norman conquest, and prototype of all the many fine Apulian cathedrals of
the same period.
It was begun in 1087 and consecrated in 1197 (dedicated to
San Nicola of Bari, who is none other than Santa Claus!); the Apulian
Romanesque betrays a certain Byzantine influence; the facade is majestic and
plain; the central porch is almost Lombard in appearance. In the interior
there is a rich ciborium on the High Altar (12th century), and wonderful
Bishop's Throne (11th century) of Abbot Elia, a beatiful panel painting by
Bartolomeo Vivarini, 1476), chapels, tombs. Near San Nicola is the small
church of San Gregorio, also Romanesque, with a graceful facade containing
three portals. From here we go down towards the harbor, reaching Corso
Trieste, which we follow to the majestic Castle, built by in the Palazzo
della Provincia (on the Lungomare Nazario Sauro) is the Provincial Art
Gallery, a fine collection of mainly Venetian paintings: works by Giovanni
Bellini, Vivarim, Tintoretto, Veronese, Bordone, some paintings of the
Ferrarese school and of 17th and 18th century Southern Italians.
At the far side of the modern city, near the railway
station, is the Archaeological Museum (Piazza Umberto 1). Keeping Bari as
our base, we shal devote the twelfth day of our journey to a fascinating
trip through the architectural and historical glories of the nearby coast
inland regions. Going west out of Bari for 14 km. (8 3/4 mi.) we come to
BITETTO and 3 km. farther on to PALO DEL COLLE, little towns with beautiful
churches; 5 km. (3 mi.) from Palo del Colle is BITONTO, with the most
graceful of Apulian Cathedrals, intact in every part from the facade to the
side walls, to the interior, to the crypt-one of the most complete pieces of
Italian architecture. Thirteen kilometers (8 mi.) from Bitonto brings us to
Terlizzi with the 13th century Oratory of the Rosary, another 4 km. (2 1/2
mi.) takes us to RUVO DI PUGLIA whose splendid Cathedral has a high soaring
facade with a graceful double window and rose-window. 26 kilometers of
straight road parallel to the sea and we are at ANDRIA one of the most
active cities in Apulia, with the churches of San Francesco and San Domenico,
both with fine portals; in the interior of the latter, a bust by Francesco
Lantana (1442). From Andria we now reach the coast at BARLETTA.
BARLETTA (12 km. - 7 1/2 mi.), a city of pre-Roman origin
and now an important commercial center, with noteworthy Roman monuments such
as the Colossus, bronze statue of an emperor of the Eastern Empire; from the
Middle Ages there is the Cathedral, Romanesque with Gothic interior
(1267-1307) containing fine works of art; the church of San Sepolcro, church
of Sant'Andrea (in the interior, a fine Madonna by Alvise Vivarini, 1483)
and the Norman-Swabian Castle Returning to Bari along the coast we reach
TRANI.
TRANI. after 14 km. (8 3/4 mi.) with its graceful
Cathedral, rising by the sea, pink with a wonderful bronze door; and the
church of Ognissanti (All Saints): Eight kilometers (5 mi.) from Trani comes
DISCEGLIE with with the delightful church of Santa Margherita (1197)
containing 13th century sculpture. Another 9 km. (5 3/4 mi.) from Bisceglic
and are at MOLFETTA with the grandest of Apulian Cathedrals in the center of
a picturesque ancient quarter; leaving Molfetta we arrive quickly at
GIOVINAZZO (another Romanesque Cathedral similar in form to that of
Molfetta) and return to Bari in the evening, after having made a complete
tour of Aplian Romanesque architecture. Leaving Bari again on the 13th day
of our journey, by the road leading to Rove, we reach CASTEL DEL MONTE.
Castel del Monte
Photo © Enrico Albanesi |
CASTEL DEL MONTE (55 km. - 34 1/2 mi. from Bari), the
finest secular building in Apulia and one of the most superb castles of the
Middle Ages, in the perfect balance of its circle of eight towers, built for
Frederick II in 1240.
After spending a little time in this enchanting spot,
we continue for another 40 km. (25 mi.) past MINERVINO MURGE, in an
attractive position on a hill covered with olive trees, to CANOSA, with a
Roman Bridge over the River Ofanto, and a Cathedral which has preserved much
of its original Romanesque structure; in the interior a fine 11th century
Pulpit and a Bishop's Throne supported on two Elephants.
Continuing, we arrive at Cerignola after 16 km. (10 mi.)
where we turn right, toward the sea, continuing along the coast road to
Siponto, where the only remnant of the ancient city standing is the solitary
church of Santa Maria, Romanesque of Pisan-Luccan forms (1117).
We are now
only a few miles from MANFREDONIA in the Gargano, that rocky and mountainous
peninsula covered with woods known as the ,spur of Italy.
At Manfredonia or
in the nearby town of MONTE SANT'ANGELO, perched in a wonderful position at
843 m, (2745 ft.) we can spend the night before the 14th day to be used for
discovering the GARGANO. |
GARGANO and the towns of VIESTE and PESCHICI, all superb places
with little white towns and villages overhanging the sea; or inland, the
mighty Umbra Forest. On the fifteenth day, having completed our tour of the
Gargano, we go down to SAN SEVERO, with fine ancient architecture, from
which a journey of 59 km. (37 mi.) brings us to TERMOLI.
TERMOLI in the Molise with a picturesque old city, a
splendid Romanesque Cathedral and a Castle built by Frederick II. From
Termoli 42 km. (26 1/4 mi.) bring us to Vasto and thence back to ORTONA,
where our journey began.
Itinerary partly courtesy of ENIT
Travel Italy
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