Rome has been nicknamed the city of
obelisks, since it is the city with by far the largest number. At
present there are thirteen, although there are legends of a
fourteenth obelisk buried near the church of San Luigi dei Francesi.
The Emperor Augustus was the first to raise them, bringing two from
Egypt; Caligula followed his example by raising one in the Circus Vaticanus and building in the Campus Martius the large temple
dedicated to Isis and Serapis, in the vicinity of which 5 obelisks
were later found; many Roman emperors continued to erect obelisks
down through the 4th century, including Constantius II, who in 352
erected in the Circus Maximus the obelisk that now stands in front
of St. John Lateran, the tallest and oldest obelisk in the world. In
fact, it is 32.18 meters tall and dates from the 15th century B.C.
Pantheon
& Obelisk
For the ancient Egyptians the
obelisks were the simulacra of the sun god Atum-Ra. The apex
represented the starting point of the ray, i.e. the center of the
sun's power, while the base represented the formless matter that the
divine light of the sun transforms into cosmos. The first obelisks
were erected at Heliopolis, a city dedicated to the sun, and were
usually erected in the center of the sanctuaries and next to
temples. They are the relicts of an extremely remote age, when even
stones were objects of worship! In Rome they completely lost their
original meaning, and took on another: that of a sign of the
greatness of the Roman Empire first, and the papacy later.
The term we use today to refer to obelisks, different from that used
by the ancient Egyptians, is of Greek origin: it derives from
obeliskos, which means, perhaps with a hint of not-so-involuntary
irony, "skewer".
To extract the huge monoliths from the quarries, the Egyptians
allegedly used a tool similar to our drill, equipped with a sort of
stone or bronze milling-cutter, whose abrasive action was greatly
increased by the use of sand. Once it was detached from the rock,
the obelisk was made to slide towards the river and hoisted up onto
a large flatboat to be carried to its destination. The erection took
place using an embankment: the progressive elimination of the sand
on which it rested made it possible to bring the monolith down onto
its base. The obelisks often broke during these long, delicate
operations, as proven by the fragments found in the quarries or on
riverbeds.
Our itinerary in search of ancient
obelisks, often arranged by the popes in the center of squares and
crossroads as visual reference points, starts from piazza Navona.
Here, in the center of the area that recalls, with its perimeter,
its original use for athletic games (see Itinerary 8), rises the
famous Fountain of the Four Rivers, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini
to support a magnificent obelisk.
The monolith of red granite, executed
in the 1st century A.D. in imitation of the Egyptian ones to
celebrate the Emperor Domitian, was perhaps intended for the Temple
of Isis in the Campus Martius. In 309 the Emperor Maxentius decided
to re-use it in the circus he had built along the Appian Way. After
remaining for a long time broken into five pieces inside the circus,
it was found again in 1649 and arranged by pope Innocent X Pamphili
in its present position, in the center of the fountain. Immediately
afterwards the bronze point was placed on top, decorated on its tip
with a dove carrying an olive branch, which belonged to the coat of
arms of the Pamphili family: This way a strong symbolic connotation
was given to the complex, because the papal dove dominates and
transmits the truth of the Gospel to the four continents, depicted
allegorically by the four rivers at the base. The Danube, the
Ganges, the Rio della Plata and the Nile are represented as river
gods, easily recognisable by their individual attributes. The Nile,
in particular, has its face covered with a veil: not because, as
suggested by the malicious, it does not want to see the facade of
the church of Sant'Agnese, designed by Borromini, but to show the
mystery that still surrounded the origins of the river's sources.
Fontana Navona Obelisk
Pantheon square
From piazza Navona we can go towards
piazza della Rotonda, which takes its name from the cylindrical
shape of the Pantheon (see Itinerary 8). In the center of the
square, which in shape resembles the arcade that probably surrounded
the temple in Roman times, there is a fountain with a mixtilinear
plan designed by Giacomo della Porta in 1575.
In the center of the basin Pope
Clement XI Albani, in 1711, ordered the erection of the obelisk that
can still be seen there. The red granite monolith, 6.43 meters tall,
comes from Egypt, where it had been erected by Ramses II in the 13th
century B.C. in the city of Heliopolis. Brought to Rome in an
unknown time, it was reused in the temple dedicated to Isis and
Serapis in Campus Martius.
Going along the left-hand side of the
Pantheon, we reach the Piazza della Minerva decorated admirably by
another monument by Bernini.
The little obelisk of red granite, 5.47 meters tall, was constructed in the 6th century B.C. by the Pharaoh
Apries, and was rediscovered in the Dominican convent of Santa Maria
sopra Minerva.
Immediately after the discovery, Pope
Alexander VII Chigi decided to erect it in the square in front of
the church, and entrusted the design of the monument to Bernini, who
thought up the elephant as a base. For the creation of the monument,
Bernini allegedly drew inspiration from a novel published in the
late 1500s by Francesco Colonna, mindful of the symbolism of
Egyptian hieroglyphics. In fact, the stele should represent the
divine wisdom that descends from the strong mind depicted by the
elephant, as is also stated in the inscription on the base, with the
warning from Alexander VII: "a strong mind is necessary to support
solid wisdom". The monument is known today as the "Pulcino della
Minerva" (Minerva's Chick), which derives from the 18th-century name
of "Porcin della Minerva" (Minerva's Piglet), which stressed the
elephant's resemblance to a piglet.
From the Piazza della Minerva we can go towards Piazza Montecitorio
where, in front of the palazzo which is the seat of the Parliament,
we see the red granite obelisk originally erected in the 6th century
B.C. at Heliopolis by Pharaoh Psammetichus II, and transported to
Rome by Augustus in 10 B.C.
Augustus used this obelisk as a
gnomon, that is the style of a gigantic sundial constructed in the
Campus Martius. It was supposed to project its shadow onto a
marble-paved square, indicating the hours, seasons, signs of the
zodiac and years, which were marked out in bronze. This sundial was
not only a technological wonder: it had been constructed in relation
to the Ara Pacis, which originally stood near the church of San
Lorenzo in Lucina, and was regulated so as to direct its shadow
towards the altar on the Emperor's birthday.
The obelisk was erected where it is
today in 1794 as per the wishes of Pope Pius VI, who had it
restored, filling in the missing parts with granite from the Column
of Antoninus Pius, which was thus destroyed.
On the square is the characteristic
Caffè di Montecitorio, whose clients include the deputies of the
Italian Republic. On the nearby Piazza di Pietra is, instead, the
famous Caffettiera, a renowned Neapolitan cafè.
We recommend that you now take the
via del Corso and conclude this itinerary by reaching Piazza del Popolo.
In the splendid setting of the square, stands the 23.9-metre-high
obelisk dating from the 14th century B.C.
It was the first obelisk to be
transferred to Rome in the time of Augustus, to celebrate the
victory over Egypt, and it was originally set up in the Circus
Maximus. Its present position, at the crossroads of the three
streets that make up the so-called trident (via del Corso,Via di
Ripetta and Via del Babuino), dates from 1589 and is due to the
untiring work of the town-planner pope Sixtus V and his architect
Domenico Fontana.
The architect and the pope moved
three obelisks into the areas of three Roman basilicas: St. Peter's,
Santa Maria Maggiore and St. John Lateran.
In the past the obelisk of Piazza del Popolo served as a source of
fun for the Romans who, after blindfolding a playmate, would force
him to walk from the obelisk as far as Via del Corso. It would be
very difficult for the hapless victim to succeed, because he would
be blocked by the obstacles he found along his way.
Courtesy of
romaturismo.com
Azienda Promozione Turistica Comune di Roma