A Riviera unrolling for more than one hundred kilometers,
with the sea striving its best to satisfy its lovers coming
from all over Europe: long beaches, bending sea-front
promenades, high cliffs, pebbly inlets, tourist harbors and
the wonderful sight of sperm whales, rorqual whales and
dolphins.
Savona
Savona is the Provincial capital, the largest town on the
Riviera di Ponente.
The name Sann-a has ita roots in the town's ancient
inhabitants, tha Sabazi Ligurians, who sided with Carthage in the
Punic war against Hannibal, unlike the Genoese who became allies
of the Romans: while there's no love lost between Savona and
Genoa, the two thousand years.
In the 13th century Savona was a
free Commune, at war with the Genoese nonetheless, who seized
power once and for all in 1528 and razed the town's fine port to
the ground. It was Napoleon and, in the 19th century, the Savoia dynasty who turned Savona back into a town worthy of the
name, building it a real port. Savona still has traces of the
medieval and baroque in its old docks, of 19th century style in its long,
straight porticoes and elegant Piedmont-esc squares
and of the modern movement along the banks of the river
Letimbro, often no more than a stream.
The core of the town stood on a hilltop overlooking the sea,
where in 1542 the Republic of Genoa built a imposing military
stronghold, the Priamar, now home to the non-hostile museums of
contemporary art.
In the 17th century, it was here that the Republic of Genoa's
chief archer, Giovan Battista Baliani, experimented with
friction and mechanical bodies just as Galileo did before him;
Baliani anticipated Torricelli's studies and distinguished
between the concept of weight and mass as Newton was to do
later.
Savona's Medieval historic center is clearly Ligurian in its
layout, complete with carruggi and houses within towers.
Its buildings are of great historical importance not least for
their architecture: the State Archives house the first document
written in the Ligurian vernacular (the Dichiarazione di
Paxia, 1178-1182).
The heart of 19th century Savona lies in porticoed Via Paleocapa,
its buildings richly decorated with Art Nouveau motifs, and
Piazza Diaz, dominated by the imposing Chiabrera Theatre which
is named after Savona's greatest poet, the greatest exponent of
17th century literature.
Towards the sea at the end of Via Paleocapa stands the short but imposing Leon Pancaldo tower, the
last remaining traces of the 14th century walls; it is named
after a Savonese sailor who accompanied Magellano on his
travels.
Opposite stands the modern cruise terminal, reflecting 21st
century Savona's vocation for sea travel and tourism, welcoming
and friendly towards all visitors.
Our tour centers on the square formed by Via Paleocapa, Corso
Italia, Corso Mazzini and the old Docks. Start from the Medieval
towers which rise above the oldest part of the port: the Corsi
and Guarnieri towers date from the 12th century, as does the
tower of the Brandale or belltower (the brandale was
actually the pole from which the Commune's flag flew). Its Huge
bell stands in Campanassa.
Nearby Palazzo degli Anziani
was once the seat of the podesta or magistrate. This marks the
start of Via Pia, once known as the Fossalvaria and the oldest
thoroughfare in old Savona. The road still has an important
commercial role to play today. Its main feature is the 15th
century Palazzo Della Rovere, built by the family which produced
two great Renaissance popes, politicians and patrons both:
Sixtus IV and Julius II.
There are many buildings and ruined towers worth visiting in the
nearby area. Via Pia leads on to the porticoes of Via Paleocapa,
but it is worthwhile making a detour along Via Aonzo towards
Piazzetta del Vescovado and the 18th century Palazzo Vescovile,
not to mention the Cathedral square which stands at the rear of
Palazzo Della Rovere.
The Duomo or cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta was built in the
late 16th century to replace its predecessor which was
demolished following the construction of the Priamar fortress.
It was Celle-born Francesco della Rovere, pope Sixtus IV from
1471 to 1484, who commissioned this chapel and its much more
illustrious counterpart in the Papal Palaces of the Vatican.
Savona's own Sistine Chapel stands next to the chatedral. It was
built by Lombard craftsmen between 1481 and 1483 as a mausoleum
for the pope's parents. In the mid 18th century it was
transformed ino a light, airy rococo jewel, decorated with
colorful floral motifs in stucco work and embellished with
paintings, a choir and 17th century organ and the funereal
monument built in 1483. It is without doubt one of the region's
greatest artistic treasures.
Woodlands around Savona: you can see that Savona is the
Provincial capital with the greatest forestry cover in the whole
of Italy as soon as you leave the town and begin to climb the
hills around it: this was Savona Wood, vast forests of prized
timber which for centuries supplied the shipyards of the
Republic of Genoa, particularly those in nearby Varazze. The
woods are just as densely packed and untamed today; very few
roads run through them and you are much more likely to come
across a herd of grazing cows than a car. It is well worth
travelling up through the valley of the Letimbro to the 6th/7th
century Sanctuary of Nostra Signora della Misericordia, with its
pretty square and Palazzo Pallavicino and Tursi, not to mention
a marble depiction of the Visitation, perhaps by Bernini. The
road rolls on into the countryside towards Montenotte, site (in
1796) of one of the numerous battles which launched Napoleon's
ephemeral conquest of Italy and Europe. After the hush of so
many trees, the Giovo pass offers more obvious traces of human
civilisation, first in the shape of a refuge, final destination
for the forest's many mountain horse riding trails which offer
views of the stunning natural landscape that no motorised means
can rival. Then the landscape begins to slowly change from the
mountainous to the agricultural as you make your way down
towards the sea through the isolated villages of the Commune of
Stella, amid terraced gardens, broom trees and olive groves.
Savona and the Riviera delle Palme
Savona - Photo (c)
Savona Port - Photo (c)