An extremely ancient Gaulish city, Bergamo also passed to Rome, to the Goths
and to the Longobards; following the period of the communes, it became part
of the feudal possessions of the Visconti. In 1429, it voluntarily agreed to
become a part of the Venetian Republic, to which it remained loyal to the
end.
Founded on a hill (the Upper Bergamo of today), it later spread down into
the plain. Passing through the lower city, we take Viale Vittorio Emanuele
to reach the upper city, passing the formidable Venetian walls through Porta
S. Agostino. The first thing that meets the eye, from among the remarkable
series of buildings to be found on this magnificently situated hill, is the
sandstone facade of the 15th century Church of S. Agostino, whose
aristocratic severity, is relieved by two large triple-mullioned windows.
In Via Point Dipinta is the tiny 13th century church of S. Michele al Pozzo
Bianco with frescoes by Lorenzo Lotto. Through the narrow and charming Via
Gombito, the church of S. Pancrazio on the right and the Torre it Gombo on
the left, we reach Piazza Vecchia, with the Gothic Palazzo delta Ragione, to
the right of which stands the 12th century Torre del Comune; across the
square is the Palazzo Nuovo with its unfinished Palladian facade.
Through the arcade of Palazzo Vecchio, we come into the Piazza del Duomo,
with its extraordinary variety of styles. Facing us is the Renaissance
facade of the Colleoni Chapel, built by the Venetian soldier of fortune as
his burial place; it is an extremely elegant example of Lombard architecture
in polychrome marble of extraordinary purity. Inside are the tombs of
Colleoni and his daughter, Medea. They are the work of the same Amadeo who
designed the chapel: in the vault, frescoes by G.B. Tiepolo.
Beside the Chapel stands the delicate 14th century Vestibule of the massive
Romanesque church of S. Maria Maggiore (12th century, but with a Baroque
interior). To the left of the square stand the Cathedral andthe handsome
Baptistery (1340). We leave in the direction of the walls of S. Grata, with
a beautiful view of the hills and the hamlet of Borgo Canale which lies
below.
Following the S. Giacomo walls, we return to Porm S. Agostino and go down
Via S. Tomaso to the neoclassical palace which houses the Accademia Carrara,
one of the most important collections of paintings in Lombardy, with works
by the two great Bergamasque artists, Ghislandi and Baschenis, as well as by
Lotto, Moroni, Mantegna, Carpaccio, Bellini, Mantegna, Tura, Foppa,
Perugino, Fra Angelico, Tintoretto, Breughel the Elder, Clouet, Lucas van
Leyden, Bluer, Roger van der Weyden, Guardi, Tiepolo, etc.
In Via San Tomaso, at the corner of Via Pignolo, is the 17th century church
of S. Aiessandro della Croce, with paintings by Lotto, L. Costa, Ricci and
Bassano; other important canvases by Lotto are to be found in San
Bernardino, S. Spirit and S. Bartolomeo.