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In fact, Milan is, arguably, the most interesting city in Italy, where old and new meet in an ever changing relationship. It is both elegant and vulgar, technology-driven and full of old world charm, money-obsessed and genteel, brassy and inviting. It's a curious, engaging mix. To most Italians, Milan is the unofficial capital of the country. It is Italy's powerhouse, where money is made. Money brings people, people create vibe and energy: it is the place where "things happen". Milan is internationally famous for its fashion and design, of course. But there is much more to see and enjoy in this industrious, hard working city. Here are a few personal suggestions - places I like, not necessarily the most celebrated. On an old rattling tram... One of the most rewarding - as well as cheapest - ways to appreciate the charm of Milan is to jump on one of its beautiful, old, rattling, orange trams. The number one, all wooden seats and retro lighting, has the best route in town. Jump on it at Piazza Sempione, where the spectacular early 19th century marble gate Arco della Pace stands - it will take you through the most elegant streets up to Piazza della Scala, the heart of the city (for information on public transport www.atm-mi.it). Get off here. Visit the Teatro alla Scala - sometimes there are guided tours, (www.teatroallascala.org). The world's most famed opera house is a sober, neo-classical building from the outside but is fittingly dramatic inside: stuccos, gold gilding and red velvet everywhere.
Wildly extravagant and pricey, it is the perfect spot for a relaxing, indulgent aperitif (www.grandhoteletdemilan.it) From here you are just a stone's throw away from Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and the Duomo. In the Galleria, there is the original Prada shop - even if you're not into fashion, this shop is a must. This is Milanese style at its best, elegant but understated. Off Duomo Square, there is Santa Maria presso San Satiro (Via Torino 17/19) This tiny jewel of a church is by the great Renaissance artist Donato Bramante and contains one of the most daring painted perspectives you are likely to see.
Don't miss its "frog cloister", a lovely fountain with four bronze frogs spurting water. Whenever I am in that neighborhood, I never fail to visit one of my all time Milan favorites, Marchesi café and patisserie (via Santa Maria alla Porta 11a), the oldest shop in Milan (1824). It is a small, wood-paneled gem of a café with delicate pistachio-colored painted walls and an elegant bar that is quintessentially Milanese. The smartly dressed barmen make some of the best espressos and cappuccinos in town. The pastries are to die for. In this same area, there are two outstanding churches San Maurizio, a miniature Renaissance church covered in beautiful frescos and mosaics and, above all, Sant'Ambrogio church, one of the jewels of Milan. It is its severe Romanic façade that makes it really special.
Any guide will tell you about the Montenapoleone area, where all the big fashion houses have their shops. It is one of the most expensive spots in the world. After 20 minutes, though, you may, like me, find it all rather tedious and prefer to wander off back to reality. One address I would suggest, however, is Cavalli e Nastri (via Brera 2), a really chic vintage shop. It's one for the girls, but even the boys will love the amazingly glamour of their outfits. Milan Tourist Guides: Centro Guide Turistiche Milano Pictures courtesy of I.A.T. Informazioni e Accoglienza Turistica della Provincia di Milano
Author: Stefano Arturi
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