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Photo (c)
emmedibi33
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Asti and province
Truffles and woodland treasures
ROUTE 1
DEPARTURE POINT: Serole
ARRIVAL POINT: Rocchetta Palafea
SEROLE is the most southerly municipality of the Asti province, confining with
Liguria, covered with chestnut trees, Saanen goat pastures and wild forests. In
the countryside fortified farms from the 16th century are still visible. From
Serole you proceed to ROCCAVERANO, passing OLMO GENTILE with even older farms
and the little commune with fascinating
castle and ever present
watchtower. Roccaverano is the capital of the Langa Astigiana area and the
highest village.
It is composed of a complex of stone buildings and real works
of architectural art, such as the
renaissance parish church, inserted in the particular man modeled landscape
of terraces, providing pastures for the Roccaverano breed of goats and hazelnut
groves which produce the Tonda Gentile hazelnut. You then pass through SAN
GIORGIO SCARAMPI, with its wine cellars, typical products and important Culturel
foundation with headquarters in the ancient Disciplinanti church.
You then
proceed to VESIME at valley bottom, where you can stop in the central square
dominated by the
medieval municipal palace and can try the typical hazelnut cake.
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A little
further on, at Cessole, you discover a real architectural curiosity in the
beautiful parish church superimposing the church of the Confraternity. In front
is the open gallery of the market founded in the 17th century.
The next place on
the route is ubbio with its historic "polentone" festivity and cake shops with
"amaretti" and other sweetmeats made from hazelnuts. After BUBBIO, along the
banks of the river Bormida, you go uphill to CASSINASCO, dividing line between
Langa territory and that of Monferrato. Its
tower, damaged by the war in the 1600's, provides a look-out with a view all
over the small village, famous for its production of hand-made nougat with
hazelnuts and local honey.
NNearby is the
sanctuary of Madonna of Caffi (the name derives from Arabic). After a few
winding paths you reach CANELLI, capital of Asti Spumante and Moscato, which are
fine accompaniments to the hazelnut specialties produced by pastry shops in the
town center (among which the characteristic "coppi"). During the San Martino
festivities in November Canelli hosts the Regional Truffle Fair.
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From Canelli
you proceed to Nizza Monferrato, city of the truffle and cardoon which accompany
the original "bagna cauda" marathon in November. A walk under the ancient
porticoes of Via Maestra allows you to taste "belecauda", the traditional
chickpea "farinata". Following the area of production of cardoons along the
banks of the river Belba and among poplar plantations, where truffle hunters go
in autumn, you reach Incisa Scapaccino (here the cardoon is known as the crooked
type).
From the artistic point of view, the upper part of the town is the most
interesting with the
gothic church of Carmine. Nearby is Cortiglione, where each year the ancient
ritual of grain threshing is celebrated. Going up the river Belbo towards
Canelli you reach Calamandrana, where truffle hunters meet. Shortly after
Calamandrana a good road leads to Rocchetta Palafea, thus you enter the Langa
Astigiana area.br>
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Nizza Monferrato - Photo (c)
Umby
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ROUTE 2
DEPARTURE POINT: Moncalvo
ARRIVAL POINT: Castagnole Lanze
At Moncalvo, renowned center for good food and wine, the visit includes the
churches, rich in the works of an unknown artist and the large square on the
bastions which each year in October hosts the crowd-ed Truffle Fair. You go long
the hills of Basso Monferrato Astigiano to reach Castagnole Monferrato (whose
name refers to the fruit of the forests which once covered these hillsides).
Take the Valle Versa road, passing under the Castle of Castell’Alfero and you
soon arrive at MONTECHIARO, a fortified commune founded in 1200 to unite and
defend the inhabitants of the surrounding villages, of which there remains
precious evidence, such as the little romanesque parish church of Saint Nazario and Saint Celso.
MONTIGLIO is also the locality of the regional truffle fair. Continuing down the
valley you reach Montiglio, the village of the sun-dials, where you can see more
than 40 ancient and recent examples. This is the land of truffles and art: there
is the great castle where the Marquis of Monferrato lived, with the most
important cycle of 13th century frescoes in Piemonte concealed in the park's
chapel. You should try the hazelnut specialties in the area.
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Cortanze - Photo (c)
ag-hag
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Following a
panoramic roadway you then head towards PIOVA' MASSAIA,
one of the most beautiful 17th century parish churches, whose cupola stands
out amidst the countryside in this part of the Monferrato. Next you take the
ancient Roman road for Industria, which was part of the Via Francigena in the
middle ages (the road taken by pilgrims to reach Rome). This is an area rich in
romanesque parish churches and castles. Two in particular are clearly visible:
the grand medieval building at CORTANZE and the 17th century mansion at PIEA.
Nearby is SOGLIO, whose small
castle conceals one of the historical gardens of Piemonte. You must stop at
CORTAZZONE to visit the
romanesque church dedicated to San Secondo.
It is also worth visiting
Settime and
Settime e
Cinaglio as you head towards the main town of the region. ASTI merits a
thorough visit of its
historical center, rich in medieval and baroque architecture.
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The Truffle
Fair is held here each November. From Asti you reach
San Damiano d’Asti, following the hillside roads which pass through
Revigliasco, the village of cherries, Antignano and San Martino Alfieri and
castle surrounded by the Kurten historical park.
After visiting the
historical center of San Damiano, with its elegant churches and buildings on
the sides of Via Maestra, you ascend to Cisterna, among the rocks and woodlands
of Roero. After cross-ing over the river Tanaro you can stop at Castagnole Lanze,
locality of a hazelnut festivity in August. The upper part of the village is
worthy of visiting.
Courtesy of ATR Piemonte - Regione Piemonte
(c) 1997-2008 E. Massetti
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