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Umbria: Franciscan Itinerary
La Verna - Assisi

   
 

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Umbria Franciscan Itinerary La Verna - Assisi

La Verna and Montecasale (in Tuscany) have a great importance in the life of Saint Francis.

 

Among the scenes placed around the Annunciation narrating various episodes in the life of the Little Friar, is the one of the Saint throwing himself naked among the thorns when he was prey to temptation.

 

In front of the Porziuncola is the Chapel of the Transit, where St. Francis died on 3rd October 1226.

Umbria Laverna

Photo © Roberto Romano

 

In addition to the Saint’s dwelling place, there is the Chapel of the Weeping, an oratory with a simple, bare interior, typical of Franciscan humility. It is the oldest construction around the Porziuncola.

 

In the Basilica, beneath the presbytery, the new crypt was built (1968) by incorporating the old dwelling places of the friars minor that came to light in 1966. Behind the high altar in the crypt is the splendid terracotta executed by Andrea Della Robbia in around 1490, depicting various events in the life of Saint Francis.

 

Adjacent to the Basilica is the four-sided Holy Convent of the Porziuncola, the first Church of the Franciscan order. The building is decorated with numerous frescos representing various episodes in the life of the Saint. Near the entrance to the cloister there is a depiction of Saint Francis receiving the stigmata (fresco by an anonymous 18th-century artist). Providoni is the name of the artist who executed the 38 frescos in the cloister showing episodes in the life of St. Francis.

 

Of great historical interest is the well-stocked library housed in the convent (circa 100,000 volumes) and the archive of the friars minor of Umbria. Near the Porziuncola is the Museum, containing precious church ornaments and other objects. picture gallery exhibiting numerous paintings, including a panel attributed to the "Maestro di S. Francesco" with a portrait of Saint Francis (13th century). This is considered to be a true relic because the Saint’s body was lain on the boards that constitute its support. There is another Saint Francis as well, probably to be attributed to Cimabue.

 

 

Cathedral of S.Rufino-(Assisi)
From Piazza del Comune, Via San Rufino leads up to a rectangular piazza on which the Cathedral of S. Rufino stands. The building of the church started in around 1140 to a design by Giovanni of Gubbio. Its consecration took place in 1253 and was performed by Innocent IV.
The Cathedral houses the relics of St. Ruphinus, bishop of Assisi, who was martyred in 238. The facade is divided into three areas: in the bottom area splendid bas-reliefs decorate the three portals. Of considerable interest is the lunette with Christ enthroned between the sun and the moon, with St. Ruphinus and the Virgin suckling her Son. The middle area of the facade is decorated with three rose windows; the most important is the one in the center, surrounded by the symbols of the four Evangelists.

 

The upper area has a central gable that was probably intended to accommodate a mosaic. There is a building beside the bell-tower, where the house of St. Clare once stood. At the beginning of the right-hand aisle is the Baptismal Font made out of a granite column. It was here that St. Francis (in 1182) and St. Clare (in 1193) and their followers in Assisi were baptised. Opening off the right-hand aisle is the "Chapel of the Sacrament" (begun in 1541 and extended in 1663), in baroque taste, with polychrome marbles and stuccoes and canvases representing the theme of the "Eucharist".

 

Also worthy of note is the statue representing the Little Friar of Assisi, executed by the sculptor Duprè. The right-hand side of the apse gives access to the Oratory of S. Francesco below, a place where the Saint used to retire to pray before preaching in the Cathedral.

 

Chiesa Nuova (New Church)-(Assisi)
Near the Town Hall stands a splendid 17th century Church: the Sanctuary of the Chiesa Nuova, built on the ruins of an edifice thought to be the house belonging to St. Francis' father. The Greek cross interior is entirely frescoed with images of the baroque epoch (many were restored in the early 20th century).

 

The Franciscan mementoes consists of the Saint's bedroom, now visible in the high altar area, and the shop where Francis sold cloth. In the first pillar on the left is the cupboard where he was imprisoned by his father and where a 17th-century wooden statue is preserved.

In the second pillar is the entrance to what remains of Francis' house (Pietro Bernardone's workshop). In the presbytery, on the high altar, is the Dream of St. Francis by Cesare Sermei.

 

On the left-hand side of the presbytery are frescos and canvases that decorate the entire church, executed by two painters from Assisi of the 17th century: Sermei and Giorgetti.

 

The works represent episodes in the life of Saints Francis, Clare and Bernardine of Siena and various martyrdoms of the Saints of the Franciscan Order. On the right-hand side of the presbytery are depictions of the Franciscan protomartyrs of Morocco; in the left-hand chapel, dedicated to the Immaculate Conception, is the altar-piece Queen of the minors, executed by Polinori.

Saint Francis itinerary

In the right-hand chapel, dedicated to S. Emidio, we find the altar-piece representing Saint Francis and the Franciscan Saints. On the left-hand side: The seven Franciscan martyrs of Ceuta; on the right-hand side we find The Franciscan protomartyrs of Japan; if we look up we can see a representation of the Franciscan Saints (F. Emanuele da Como).

 

In the pendentives in the central dome of the Sanctuary of the Chiesa Nuova are the Four evangelists. On the pillars of the great dome: eight episodes in the life of St. Francis.

Saint Francis Umbria

On the left-hand side of the Chiesa Nuova, down the short backstreet of Vicolo superiore di S. Antonio, is the oratory of San Francesco Piccolino, where the Saint was born. Proof of this event is provided by an inscription above the entrance door that proclaims: "This oratory was a stable for the ox and the ass where Francis was born, mirror of the world".

 

Church of Santa Maria Maggiore - (Assisi)

 

In the 11th century, in the center of the town of Assisi, a cathedral stood on the ruins of a pagan Temple. Several documents of circa 963, drawn up on this site, bear witness to the fact that the church was reconstructed in the years 1212-1228. In the Romanesque style, it is Assisi's first cathedral. Before 1035, the title of cathedral was transferred to S. Rufino, but S. Maria Maggiore maintains the episcopal see.

The facade (completely rebuilt in 1937) is very simple, with a pitched form divided into three by pilasters, according to the Umbrian-Romanesque style. In the center is a rose window with eight straight rays and an inscription of 1163 bearing the name of Giovanni, who some have identified as Giovanni of Gubbio, the architect who built the Cathedral of S. Rufino. The 14th-century Romanesque-Gothic bell-tower is very fine. Nowadays no longer visible, in the apse area there is a plaque written in Latin that said: "Year 1216... at the time of Bishop Guido and Brother Francis".

Inside, the church has three aisles; the central one has a trussed roof whilst the side ones are vaulted. In the apse, along the aisles and in the sacristy, 14th- and 15th-century frescos and a 9th-century sarcophagus can be seen. The small left-hand aisle preserves a fresco representing a Deposition of Christ, dating back to the early years of the Risorgimento.

 

In the central aisle, on the left, is a Madonna of Misericordia, a Bishop Saint and St. Lucy (late 14th century), attributed to Andrea of Bologna; likewise the figure of a Deacon Saint, on the second arch. On the wall of the second arch, on the left, is a Madonna and Child of the Umbrian school (1300); on the right a canvas attributed to Carloni, of the 17th century, representing Veronica and the Redeemer.

 

The other frescos were destroyed in the earthquake of 1832. On the left-hand wall of the presbytery in "cornu Evangelii", is a coat of arms with the inscription of the bishop Guido II.

Saint Francis Umbria

The 9th-10th-century crypt leads to an underground room (it came to light in 1865) containing the ruins of an ancient Roman house. The underground room has an irregular plan, divided into two aisles with four columns. Next to the church is the bishop's palace of Assisi, where the young Francis, under the eyes of Bishop Guido, chose the path of total service to God and therefore of freedom from the earthly world.

 

It was in this very place that the Saint was the bishop's guest, before he went to die, as he had asked, in his adored Porziuncola.

 

Eremo delle Carceri- (Assisi)

 

Eremo delle Carceri - (Assisi)An ancient 14th-century hermitage situated about 5 km from Assisi. Saint Francis used to withdraw to this place, along with his companions, for long periods of time, meditating and praying in the heart of the woods on Mount Subasio. It was called Eremo delle Carceri because the word "Carcere" meant Sacred Retreat. Originally it was just a small Oratory, which struck Francis as the ideal place for penance and contemplation.

 

In the early 1300s the site was handed over to the Friars Minor; in 1373 it was given to the Blessed Paoluccio Trinci, who built the first cells there, in the form of a dormitory, around the cave of Saint Francis and next to the Small Chapel of Saint Mary (oratory of S. Maria). The cave is now separated into two rooms with a bed carved into the rock and a corner for meditation. Subsequently the convent was enlarged without undergoing further alterations. Above the door of the convent we can still see the sculpted monogram of Saint Bernardine. Inside there is a refectory with 15th-century tables; on one wall there is a fresco dating back to 1595 depicting the Last Supper.

Saint Francis Cloister

On the top floor we find the dormitory, where the cells are located. Outside is a small cloister giving access to the chapel of Saint Bernardine, which was frescoed in the early 15th century. Behind the altar there is a fresco by Tiberio d'Assisi: "The Virgin, Child and Saint Francis" dating back to 1506.

 

On the altar in the oratory is a Crucifix that is thought to be the one that Saint Francis wore on his chest when he went out to evangelize the people. A tiny door leads back outside. On the floor there is a perforated plaque known as "the Devil’s Hole". According to tradition it was into this opening in the mountain that the devil hurled himself, after having tried in vain to tempt Francis. In the wood below are the caves of the Blessed Rufinus and Masseus.

 

Here, visitors can still admire the tree of the birds, an ancient ilex, on which it is said the birds would perch to receive the Little Friar’s blessing. Further along this highly atmospheric path is the statue depicting St. Francis freeing the turtledoves by Rosignoli (1882). Saint Francis’ walk leads to the cave of Brother Leo.

The cells of the Saint’s other companions, Bernard of Quintavalle, Brother Giles, Sylvester, Andrew of Spello and Anthony of Stroncone, are situated beyond the ditch.
The view from the Eremo, sweeping over the valley of the Topino, Chiascio and Tiber rivers, is one of rare beauty.

 

Saint Francis found this place to be a source of inspiration and ideal for deep meditation, and maybe this is why, alongside the church of San Damiano, the Eremo delle Carceri is without doubt the “most Franciscan” place in Assisi.

 

Church of Rivotorto - (Assisi)
Saint Francis and his "brothers" lived in this place at the beginning of their evangelical mission. Originally it was a humble coenoby consisting of a chapel with two tiny cells and was so small that when the number of brothers grew, it was necessary to write the name of each friar on the beams so that each one should have a place assigned to him. It was such a precious monument and had always been so greatly venerated, that in 1586 Sixtus IV decided to build a bigger church there, which was begun in 1600 and completed in 1640. A convent was later annexed to it.

 

As a result of the earthquake of 1853, the church was rebuilt in the neo-Gothic style, according to a design by brother Bernardo Tini; however, the ancient chapel and the Saint's hovel remained intact. The facade is similar to the church of S. Rufino, with a pitched roof, three portals and circular windows. The facade also bears a plaque recording the bull of Benedict XIV, in which he declared the church to be a "papal chapel".

 

On the gable there is a depiction of "The vision of the chariot of fire". In the ancient coenobium, partly rebuilt in 1926, there are three small rooms: the Saint's cell, a small chapel with a 15th-century altar and a kitchen or fire-room.

 

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Courtesy of Umbria 2000


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